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7th Season
riNERAPIES
GILLESPIE'SPOPULARTOURS
7™ Season
Gillespie s Popular ToursPERSONALLY CONDUCTED
Choice of Three Tours. . for the . .
^ Summer of J 899 dt
TOUR No. \.
The Pacific Coast and Yellowstone Park.
TOUR No. 2.
The'Great Lakes^ Georg^ian Bay^ the Thousand Islands^ the St. Lawrence,
and the Adirondacks.
TOUR No. 3.
Boston, the White Mountains, Old Orchard Beach,
and the Coast of Maine.
. . .•• >•• • ».*
W. A, GILLESPIE
639-643 N. BROAD ST. PHILADELPHIA
Introductory.
ToFRIENDS who have enjoyed other tours with me during the past seven
years; to Teachers, especially, who desire to attend the Annual Convention of
the National Educational Association, to be held at Los Angeles, July iith-
14th, and to their friends, the three tours, fully outlined on the following
pages, are respectfully submitted.
Chief among them, of course, is Tour No. i, to the Pacific Coast, returning via
Portland, Oregon, and the Yellowstone National Park. The arrangements for this
tour are unusually complete, and the rate named, which covers every necessary ex-
pense, phenomenally low.
It was my privilege to organize the great Pennsylvania Christian Endeavor Tour
to the Pacific Coast, in connection with the Christian Endeavor Convention at San
Francisco, in July, 1897. That was the largest excursion that ever crossed the conti-
nent; the party numbered 856, and traveled in a train of four sections, the second and
third sections leaving Philadelphia two days later than the first and second.
In making arrangements for such a large party we were able to secure exception-
ally favorable rates. We are glad to say that with but a very few exceptions we have
secured the same favorable rates for the Tour of '99. It is for this reason that we are
able to name such a low rate to cover every necessary expense. Remember, too, that
the accommodations throughout are to be strictly first-class.
The Passenger Associations have named for the National Educational Convention,
a railroad rate of one fare for the round trip, i. e., $81.25 from Philadelphia, with $12.50
additional to return via Portland, making $93.75 for total cost of round trip railroad
ticket only from Philadelphia, returning via Portland and the Yellowstone National
Park.
It is a little unfortunate that the Teachers' Convention should open as early as
July nth, for that necessitates the arrival of our party at Los Angeles on the evening
of the loth. In order to accomplish this, and at the same time do full justice to the
many points of interest en route through the Rockies and across the Sierra Nevadas,
we must of necessity leave Philadelphia on the evening of June 30th, notwithstanding
the fact that our schools only close on that date. This itinerary will reach the hands
of many who took the California Tour in '97; but we feel sure they will be at once in-
terested in the July Tour of the Great Lakes, Thousand Islands, etc., and the August
Tour of the White Mountains and the coast of Maine.
All the Tours are to be personally conducted, and every detail will be closely
jb'qked'Vtvrj ti^e ehiesf aini^lj^^ 1p study the comfort and pleasure of the Tourist.
Faithfully yours,
W. A. GILLESPIE.
?^
Philadelphia, April 15th, 1899.
P.
r^^l "^.l^ r ^OLAXW^t^}
TOUR No. J.
To be Known as the Pacific Coast Tour.
.S«i-^.V*^'«T<f,««
THE JOURNEY TO CALIFORNIA.
ITis a far cry. Many who have never made the journey look upon it as necessarily
a long and tedious confinement in a commodious upholstered box. Others whohave gone and returned repeatedly regard the overland passage as one replete
with the interest of continual changes—changes that include climates, zones, andimmense distances, full of pictures of the rich-
ness, variety, miraculous growth, and immensewealth of the most magnificent empire knownto human history.
There is now a feeling that to an intelligent
man or woman the transcontinental journey is
necessary, even if there were no wonderful Cali-
fornia at the end of it. Genius seizes upon it
as something dramatic. Kipling's most strik-
ing chapter in the unique Captains Courageous is
about the overland ride of a man and a womanfrom the Pacific coast to Chicago. It was a
personal experience with the famous story-teller,
and he made a chapter to put it in. Thousandsof men and women are equal to Mr. Kipling,
not in that ability to describe, which we call
genius, but in the ability to see and understand
and appreciate. The long overland journey is
not a tedious task, but a privilege and a
pleasure.
This long journey has periods and zones
and natural divisions. Of these last there are at
least three, each immensely different from the
other two. Going west, the first division maybe supposed to be that country lying betweenthe commercial centre of the Mississippi Val-
ley at Chicago and its western edge in the
Rocky Mountains and Colorado. What this divi-
sion includes cannot be put into words, but
5
7^*'^:H^'%?;:^4^
Magnolia Ave, Riverside, So. Cal.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
Redlands, So. Cal.
only into the colossal figures that tell in pounds and bushels and values of the steady
stream that goes out thence to feed the world. The line that is the very nearest,
quickest, and shortest across this gigantic garden, and that in the matter of days and
nights shows the
least of any,
crosses northern
Illinois, southern
Iowa, and central
Nebraska. Onecould not see all
that this belt rep-
resents in a jour-
ney of thousands
of miles through
and across it. But
it represents in
this railway trip
across it the best
of the world's bread-basket, and the scene is so impressive that no intelligent European
can once cross it and return home and assure his country of safety in a quarrel with
such vast resources.
The second division of the journey may be assumed to include the mountain
scenery of Colorado to Salt Lake City. The contrast between the first and this
second division is startling. The abiding wonder is that railroads were ever built
across these mountains at all. As it is they traverse with thousands of curves and
steep grades and clingings to mountain-sides and threadings of fissures; sometimes
amid the clouds and sometimes in cafions whose walls rise hundreds of feet on each
hand; scenery about which volumes have been written, but which no man has ever
yet described.
And does the reader
understand that that city of
the Latter-Day Saints, that
lies at the end of this as-
sumed division, is one of
the wonders of the world?
It is not so much in what
one sees there as in what
that scene, that garden in
the desert, represents. There
never was a faith, not even
that of Israel when it trailed
itself behind the pillar of
fire for forty years, that
equaled the faith that first A Street in Los Angeles.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
led these people to Salt Lake across such distance and such hopeless hardships. Here
they are, the famous Mormons. One can see that it was a successful faith, if one will
stop and study its results, yet it is one that to the world and to all other faiths is a
mass of puerilities.
The third division is from Salt Lake westward. As far as to Truckee, where the
train begins to climb amid those scenes of the Sierras, the impression is chiefly one of
rcck-ribbed vastness. It is true that the eye grows tired and the senses dull as the
huge panorama glides past, yet it is an experience that takes its place at last amid the
pleasant memories, and may be over and over repeated. There be those hardy men
of whom, in hours of stress, this republic need never despair, who do not speak of this
as a desert. Be that as it may, the traveler to California is in it but not of it. Heglides over it and it is gone.
And then, with the climbing of the Sierras, comes California, glimpses of which,
and only glimpses, appear in the follozving pages.
Outlining, to some extent, the Tour in detail, the party will leave Philadelphia Friday
evening, June 30th, 1899, from the Reading Terminal (Twelfth and Market Streets),
via the Philadelphia & Reading and Lehigh Valley Route to Chicago, arriving Satur-
day evening, July ist. Throughout the tour, no Sunday traveling will be required.
Sunday, July 2d, will be spent in Chicago, with the Victoria Hotel, one of Chicago's
finest, for headquarters. At midnight, Sunday, July 2d, the party leave Chicago for
Denver, Colorado, that part of the journey consuming all of Monday and Mondaynight, crossing the great agricultural States of Illinois, Iowa, and Nebraska, arriving
iit Denver, the capitol of Colorado, and the metropolis of the middle West, on Tuesday
morning, July 4th.
We could scarcely
ask to celebrate
the Nation's birth-
day in a more
beautiful city. His-
torically, in 1858,
the Pike's Peak
gold excitement
caused a rush from
the East to Colo-
rado, and a camp
was pitched at the
junction of Cherry
Creek and the
Platte, which,shortly after, was
christened Aura-
ria. From this
small beginning sprang Denver, the "Queen City of the Plains." Beautiful for situation,
with the great range of the Rocky Mountains towering in the west, and the illimitable
Dining-room—Windsor Hotel, Denver,
8 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
plains stretching to the Missouri River on the east, Denver is worthy of the attention
and admiration of all who behold it. It is one of the greatest railroad points in the
West; twelve railroads centering here, radiating to all parts of the United States,
thus giving Denver almost unsurpassed facilities for transcontinental traffic.
Here we are to spend the day—and a delightful day we are sure it will prove to
be. Our headquarters will be at the Windsor Hotel, one of the best hotels in the
city, and only a short walk from the Union Station. During the day the party will
take its first side trip through the beautiful Clear Creek Cafion via the Denver & Gulf
Railway. This is the celebrated "Loop" Trip. The first peep into the cafions of the
Rockies. There is nothing like Clear Creek Cafion in America. It is not exaggera-
tion to say that, for wild, rugged scenery, Nature in her most majestic mood failed to
provide its equal, and it cannot be described. As the iron horse laboriously climbs
the steep grade, often overhead there is but a haunting hand's-breadth of gleaming
sky; the grim walls, close enough to touch at times as you flit by; the fantastic shapes
carved upon the mountain, bold profiles and fairy castles; the tranquil summerland
into which you occasionally dash, when the cafion widens into a few brief acres,
green, shady, inviting; a passing glimpse of a dazzling snow-summit, far away in the
upper ether—these, and more, one may recall, and still there remains an indefinable
sense of something elusive that you have not held
fast and cannot describe. It is the spirit of beauty,
the power of pure, ennobling scenery, which cannot
be taken away from its home or ever reproduced in
words.
After a thrilling ride of something over two
hours, we approach the beautiful little mountain vil-
lage of Georgetown, perched above which is the
famous "Loop," that wonderful piece of engineering
skill now world-famous.
Passing above West Clear Creek, with just a
glimpse of the picturesque bridge that spans Devil's
Gate, the road runs under the great viaduct, and rises
and rises until you have left the city hundreds of feet
below and to the north; but, with a sudden turn, it
is again seen, with the train this time rushing toward
the city and still climbing; again a turn to the east;
now down ninety feet below is the track just passed;
away again on the farther side of the mountain, again
crossing to the west side; suddenly turning to the
east until the "Big Fill," 76 feet high—too sharp a
curve for a bridge—has given another circle to the track; then, with a turn to the west,
around the slope of McClellan Mountain, still another view of Georgetown, with all
the tracks in view, each seeming to have no relation to its neighbor, until another
valley in the mountains discloses the pretty village of Silver Plume, the close ally and
best friend of Georgetown. But the "Loop" is a railway on a "bender"—it is the
Hanging Rock on the "Loop" Trip.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 9
apotheosis of gyration, the supreme luxury of entanglement—yet all wisely, clearly,
skilfully planned—a wondrous monument of human genius and engineering skill.
After crossing the Loop it is
only a short run to Silver
Plume, the end of our journey.
We remain at Silver Plume a
short time and then retrace our
steps, returning to Denver,
where the remainder of the day
and the evening hours will be
spent.
At midnight, our Pullmans
move out of Union Station, over
the tracks of the Denver & Rio
Grande Railway, and when we
awaken in the morning we find
ourselves at Manitou Springs, Colorado, under the shadow of Pike's Peak, and on the
threshold of the Garden of the Gods.
Here the party remains for the greater part of the day, the time being divided
between the ascent of Pike's Peak and the carriage ride through the Garden of the
Gods. Both trips are included in the Tour. There will be ample time, also, for a
visit to Colorado Springs, only five miles distant, and reached by trolley.
As to Manitou Springs itself, the dominating impression i^ a winding village
avenue paved in red, walled with artistically constructed cottages and hotels and
The World-famous "Loop."
The Barker House, Manitou.
10 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
business houses, built of mountain stone or mountain pine, decorated with parks and
bubbHng springs and restful canopy pavilions free to all, with a brawling mountain
brook always making melody beside one wherever he walks. Bounding all this on
every side a barricade of stupendous mountains, chasmed with rugged and picturesque
cafions opening at either side when least expected, and the whole having for its back-
ground the immensity of Pike's Peak.
Cover all these mountain walls with a confusion of color from variegated rocks
and the green of pines, every slope a broken and rugged wilderness of fragmentary,
stony disorder, fill the valley with the purest, sweetest air under heaven, untainted by
any uncleanness, and this is Manitou.
Our headquarters at Manitou will be the Barker House, one of the celebrated
resort hotels of the city.
PIKE'S PEAK.
Pike's Peak recurs to mind the instant a query is made as to Manitou's most
famous natural scenery. And now that its ascent is made a matter of no labor what-
ever, where once it was a task
attractive power for thou-
summit of a peak that was
is an achievement, even if
of an external motive
From Manitou to
the very apex of Pike's
Peak extends a rail-
way, traversed daily
in the summer sea-
to make the strongest hesitate, the
sands is doubled. To stand on the
long reputed unattainable,
it be done by aid
power.
son by cars and locomo-
tives, and carrying hun-
dreds of tourists to this
amazing point of vantage.
It is one of the remark-
able pieces of railway con-Makxng the Ascent of Pike's Peak.
StrUCtion of the WOrld.
The Manitou and Pike's Peak Railway was completed in June, 1891, at a cost of
more than $1,000,000. It is the longest and highest cog-road in the world. It
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
reaches, at the summit, the immense height of 14,334 feet, and in its course of nine
and one-half miles it climbs grades up to twenty-five per cent, without jar or difficulty.
The workmanship of the line is of the safest and staunchest sort, and no pains
or expenses were spared to guarantee absence of all danger. The track is tied at
short distances to cross sections of masonry, sunk in the side of the mountain, so
that a slide is absolutely impossible. The maximum curvature is but 16 degrees;
there is not a foot of trestlework in the whole line, and the three short bridges are of
solid iron construction.
The greatest ascent per mile is 1,320 feet. The climbing is done by means of
two cog-rails placed in the middle of the track, in which engage corresponding cog-
wheels of the locomotive. Safety is assured by all sorts of appliances used for such
purpose, and no accident has ever occurred.
The cars, which are built on a slant so that the seats are always level, are pushed
by the engine and are not coupled together, so that, by the use of independent safety
brakes, absolute security from danger is
guaranteed.
It would be fruitless to attempt to con-
vey to the mind of one who has not seen
them the qualities of enormous size and im-
pressive grandeur, mingled in the beginning
with picturesque beauty, that go to make up
the delights of a ride to the summit of Pike's
Peak.
The road starts in Engleman's Cafion,
near the Iron Spring, and climbs up the
gulch for some distance at the side of Rux-
ton Creek. Several picturesque cafions
branch from the main gulch as the road as-
cends, all worthy of rambles in turn.
As one passes caiion after cation and
reaches the various places which have been
associated with names, every turn of the
wheels seems to open before him some new
pleasure of sight. Through openings among the trees and rocks he may see familiar
objects far away, dwarfed by distance and depth.
Soon after the train leaves the Half-Way House, Timber Line Station is reached,
and then the famous Windy Point, whence the view is particularly magnificent. After
this the rest of the journey is along the extreme grade of the road—twenty-five per
cent. The great precipice of "The Crater" is passed, and the summit of Pike's Peak is
attained.
From the peak the view is indescribably grand. The extent of territory surveyed
is enormous. Many familiar cities and resorts can be seen. The immense solitude,
the profound silence, the evidences of nature's stupendous strength, the clouds and
storms below are almost overwhelming.
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14 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
THE GARDEN OF THE GODS.
Few tracts of equal area have been so much written about, so much exploited and
described in print as the peculiar place known at the Garden of the Gods. Whonamed it thus is a disputed point, but at any rate
it was a happy conceit, if we may believe in gro-
tesquerie as one of the objects of gardening amongthe gods of mythology.
Three miles from Manitou, driving by either
one of two beautiful carriage roads, the tourist
finds an immense sandstone boulder at the left of the
road, standing on a base so small that it would
seem a push from a sturdy shoulder might topple
it over. This is Balanced Rock, the southwest en-
trance to the peculiar garden.
From this point the road winds down into a val-
ley of several hundred acres, to find an exit again
at the northeast, between portals famous in illustra-
tion the world over as the Gateway of the Garden.
Two enormous red sandstone rocks rise from
the plain almost vertically, to a height of more
than 300 feet. They are so thin, measured by their
height and length, that they seem almost like slabs
of stone set up by giant hands to form this gateway.
Between these two entrances, that of the Balanced Rock and the Gateway, the
valley is dotted at intervals with most peculiar and grotesque rock formations, rising
from the level plain in figures promptly suggestive of things we have seen in life.
Carved in the stone by nature's active elements, the statues and figures stand for the
interest and admiration of all who pass. Frost, wind, rain, sun, all have shared the
labor, and it is still continuing, so that future generations will see new forms yet
covered in the solid blocks of stone. All sorts of animals and men and things are
detected in the stone by the ingenious one, some very obvious, others needing a vivid
imagination or a strained vision; but no one can deny the picturesque novelty of the
formations. Of them all, however, the Gateway and the Cathedral Spires are the
most notable. The latter are formed by a splintered slab second only in size to those
of the Gateway and also second only in interest to them.
Glen Eyrie, the residence of a gentleman who kindly permits strangers to drive
through his unique grounds, terminates in Queen's Cation, and contains some re-
markable features of this sort, crags, and precipices of amazing shapes, and, foremost
of all, "Major Domo," a monolith whose form is ever remembered when once seen.
Pike's Peak and the Garden of the Gods are only two of the many attractions at
Manitou Springs, so that the day will be most delightfully spent.
Leaving Manitou Springs the train moves on toward Pueblo. Colorado. Shortly
» Major Domo, in the Garden of the
tw. . .» IGods.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 15
The Quakers, Garden of the Gods.
after leaving Pueblo, we approach Canon City, situated at the very mouth of the
Royal Gorge of the Grand Caiion of the Arkansas.
THE ROYAL GORGE.
The crowning wonder of this wonderful Denver & Rio Grande Railroad is the
Royal Gorge. Situated between Canon City and Salida, it is easy of access either
from Denver or Pueblo. After the entrance of the caiion has been made, surprise and
almost terror comes. The train rolls around a long curve close under a wall of
black and banded granite, beside which the ponderous locomotive shrinks to a mere
dot, as if swinging on some pivot in the heart of the mountain or captured by a cen-
tripetal force that would never resign its grasp. Almost a whole circle is accom-
plished, and the grand amphitheatrical sweep of the wall shows no break in its smooth
and zenith-cutting fa*gade. Will the journey end here? Is it a mistake that the
crevice goes through the range? Does not all this mad water gush from some
powerful spring, or boil out of a subterranean channel, impenetrable to us? No, it
opens. Resisting centripetal, centrifugal force claims the train, and it breaks away
at a tangent past the edge or round the corner of the great black wall which com-
pelled its detour and that of the river before it. Now what glories of rock-piling
confront the wide-distended eye. How those sharp-edged cliffs, standing with up-
right heads that play at hand-ball with the clouds, alternate with one another, so
that first the right, then the left, then the right one beyond strike our view, each one
half obscured by its fellow in front, each showing itself level-browed with its com-
THE ROYAL GORGE.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 17
rades as we come even with it, each a score of hundreds of dizzy feet in height, rising
perpendicular from the water and the track, sphntered atop into airy pinnacles,
braced behind against the almost continental mass through which the chasm has been
cleft. This is the Royal Gorge!
When first examined it seemed impossible that a railway could ever be con-
structed through this stupendous cafion to Leadville and the West. There was
scarcely room for the river alone, and granite ledges blocked the path with their
mighty bulk. In time, however, these obstructions were blasted away, a road-bed,
closely following the contour of the cliffs, was made, and to-day the cafion is a well-
used thoroughfare. But its grandeur still remains. After entering its depths, the
train moves slowly along the side of the Arkansas and around projecting shoulders
of dark-hued granite, deeper and deeper into the heart of the range. The crested
crags grow higher, the river madly foams along its rocky bed, anon the way becomes
a mere fissure through the heights. Far above the road the sky forms a deep blue
arch of light; but in the Gorge hang dark and sombre shades which the sun's rays
have never penetrated. The place is a measureless gulf of air with solid walls on
either side. Here the granite cliffs are one thousand feet high, smooth and unbroken
by tree or shrub, and there a pinnacle soars skyward for thrice that distance. Noflowers grow, and the birds care not to penetrate the solitudes. The river, sombre
and swift, breaks the awful stillness with its roar. Soon the cleft becomes still more
narrow, the treeless cliffs higher, the river closer confined, and, where a long iron
bridge hangs suspended from the smooth walls, the grandest portion of the cafion
is reached. Man becomes dwarfed and dumb in the sublime scene, and Nature ex-
hibits the power she possesses. The crags menacingly rear their heads above the
daring intruders, and the place is like the entrance to some infernal region.
Escaping from the Gorge we soon arrive at Salida, Colorado. At Salida we are
to leave our Pullmans for a slight break in our journey over a Narrow Gauge line to
the summit of Marshall Pass and return,—another three hours' ride of thrilling in-
terest.
AMONG THE CLOUDS.
Leaving Salida, the Narrow Gauge line takes us through Poncha Pass, whose
lesser glories lead up to the grand surprises of Marshall Pass, as an introductory
symphony leads up to the triumphant music of a majestic march, the traveler makes
his advent. Gradually the view becomes less obstructed by mountain sides, and
the ey6 roams over miles of cone-shaped summits. The timberless tops of towering
ranges show him that he is among the heights and in a region familiar with the
clouds. Then he beholds, stretching away to the left, the most perfect of all the
Sierras. The sunlight falls with a white transfiguring radiance upon the snow-
crowned spires of the Sangre de Cristo Range. Their sharp and dazzling pyramids,
which, near at hand, are clearly defined, extend to the southward until cloud and sky
and snowy peak commingle and form a vague and bewildering vision. To the right
towers the fire-scarred front of old Ouray, gloomy and grand, solitary and forbidding.
Ouray holds the pass, standing sentinel at the rocky gateway to the fertile Gunnison.
i8 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
Slowly the steeps are conquered, until at last the train halts upon the summit of
Marshall Pass. The awful silence of the storm-tossed granite ocean lies beneath.
The traveler looks down upon four lines of road, terrace beyond terrace, the last so
far below as to be quite indistinct to view. These are only loops of the almost spiral
pathway of descent. Wonder at the triumphs of engineering skill is strangely
mingled with feelings of awe and admiration at the stupendous grandeur of the
scene. The party will have an opportunity to ascend to the observatory constructed
above the station, which elevation commands a view of both Atlantic and Pacific
Slopes. One of, if not quite, the most awe-inspiring views on the continent.
Retracing our steps we are soon again at Salida, and in our Pullmans moving on
toward Leadville; after Leadville comes the Cafion of the Grande River.
Through an Arcadian valley the approach to Fremont Pass is made. A famous
pass, with the historic name of him who has been called the Pathfinder, although a
later day has witnessed greater achievements than his among the Rocky Mountains.
A journey here deserves the title of a pilgrimage, for from the summit of this pass
the traveler can discern the Mount of the Holy Cross. The scene is one replete with
vivid interest. Fainter and fainter grow the lines of objects in the valley, until at
last the clouds envelop the train, and at the next moment the observer looks downupon a rolling mass of vapor through which the light strikes in many colored beams.
The sublimity of the scene forbids all thoughts other than those of reverence andrapture. The railway crosses the pass at an altitude of 11,540 fee—higher than any
iron trail yet established in North America or the Old World.
MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS.
From the crest of Fremont Pass can be seen the Mount of the Holy Cross. It
is a summit that would attract the eye anywhere, its foot hidden in verdurous hills,
guarded by knightly crags half-buried in seething clouds, its helmet vertical, frown-
ing, plumed with gleaming snow,
"Aye, every inch a king."
The snow-white emblem of the Christian faith gleams with bright splendor against
an azure sky. The cross is formed by two transverse cafions of immense depth,
riven down and across the summit of the mountain. In these cations lie eternal snow.
The symbol is perfect in shape, and while gazing with wonder and awe upon this
"sign set in the heavens," the adventurous wayfarer at last realizes that he has reached
that height "around whose summit splendid visions rise" and those thrilling lines of
Keats come involuntarily to his lips:
"Then felt I like some watcher of the skies
When a new planet swims into his ken;
Or like stout Cortes, when with eagle eyes
He stared at the Pacific—and all his menLooked at each other with a wild surmise
—
Silent upon a peak in Darien."
20 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
Shining grandly out of the pure ether and above all turbulence of earthly strife,
it seems to say: "Humble thyself, O man! Uncover thy head, forget not that as high
as gleams the splendor of this ever-living cross above thy gilded spires, so are the
thoughts of its Creator above thy thoughts, His ways above thy ways." And then
comes the Caiion of the Grande.
THE CANON OF THE GRANDE.
The Caiion of the Grande River is approached through the valley of the Eagle.
Gradually the valley narrows, high bluffs hem us in on the left, the river is close to
the track on the right, and its fertile banks suddenly change into a tumbled, twisted,
black, and blasted expanse of scoria. The few trees on the hither side of the stream
arc also black, an inheritance of fire, the waters under the black banks and reflecting
the blackened trees, take on a swarthy hue—a stygian picture! Just beyond, a dis-
tance glimpse of fertile country, and the clear waters of the Eagle are lost in the
muddy current of the Grande, and a caiion greater in extent and more varied in charac-
ter than that of the Arkansas opens before us.
Vast bastions of granite, strata on strata, rise to a stupendous height, braced
against rock masses behind them infinitely vaster. Suggestions of the Sphinx and of
the pyramids can be caught in the severe and gigantic rock-piled structure on every
hand. These are not made up of boulders, nor are they solid monoliths, like those
in the Royal Gorge. On the contrary, they are columns, bastions, buttresses, walls,
pyramids, towers, turrets, even statues of stratified stone, with sharp cleavage, not
in the least weather-worn, presenting the appearance of Brobdignagian masonry,
hence I use the phrase, "rock-piled structures," advisedly and as best descriptive of
what there exists.
Whirling around a headland of glowing red rock, which it seems ought to be
called "Flamingo Point," we are in a region of ruddy color and of graceful forms.
Minarets, from whose summits the muezin's call might readily be imagined falling
upon the ear of the dwellers in this "Orient in the West," spires more graceful than
that of Bruges, more lofty than that of Trinity, towers more marvelous than Pisa's
leaning wonder, columns more curious than that of Vendome, splintered and airy
pinnacles, infinite in variety, innumerable! inimitable! indescribable!
In a moment darkness and the increased rumble of wheels—then light and
another marvelous view. We have passed tunnel No. i, the portcullis; darkness
again for a moment, then the blue sky above us. We have entered through the pos-
tern gate; darkness for the third time, absolute, unmitigated blackness of darkness
—
this must be "the deepest dungeon 'neath the castle mote"—but soon again we see the
blessed light, and there before us lies Glenwood Springs.
[From the Philadelphia Inquirer, October 14th, 1894.—"In the Alps of America."]
"Glenwood Springs is somewhat of an eye-opener to the man with old-fashioned
ideas about the wild and woolly West. It is a smart town, with electric lights, etc.,
and is entirely up to date. The town is famous for its springs, of which there are
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 21
many of every kind and temperature. But the imposing feature is the Hotel
Colorado. It is not particularly flattering to a Philadelphian to find after a 2,500-
Hotel Colorado, Glefiwood Springs, Col.
mile journey a hotel which is so far ahead of anything in his own city that he feels
called upon to blush.*
"The hotel is built in Mexican style of architecture, and rests at the foot of a
mountain. In front is a large park filled with fountains, on all sides are the springs,
and near at hand the swimming pool, which is one of the most marvelous things in
America. The hotel is built of peach-blow colored stone and Roman brick. It is
furnished lavishly, but in excellent taste. Everything that can be thought of is pro-
vided for the comfort of the guests. You sleep in the softest of beds, in the most
elegant apartments. You eat of the fat of the land, cooked till it melts in your
mouth, and served by dainty New England maids in spotless caps and aprons. Yousit on the porch and loaf; you bathe in the pool, and swim to your heart's content;
you eat again, loaf again, dine, and sit on the piazza at night with a panorama before
you worth a journey to Mars. The fountains shoot up hundreds of feet, and electric
lights throw various colors on them, while an orchestra plays sweet music. It is like
fairyland. You feel like driving a stake and never leaving.
"I have been in many lands, but never reached a more delightful spot. There
are a great many springs of various properties, and varying in temperature from 40
degrees to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The bathing pool is 600 feet long, no feet wide,
and from three and one-half to six and one-half feet deep. It is fed from a hot
spring, which discharges 2,500,000 gallons daily at a temperature of 124 degrees. The
mineral quality of the water is excellent for gout, rheumatism, and kindred diseases.
I know of no place in the world where enterprise has done so much,
"But the most novel attraction is the vapor cave. Here one steps from his dress-
ing-room into the very side of the mountain, into an atmosphere heavy with the hot,
* The reader will notice that this was written in 1894, before the Hotel Walton was built.
22 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
sulphurous vapors of the waters that flow beneath, and the result is a profuse perspi-
ration, which is supposed to carry away with it those poisons with which the system
has become freighted. The effect of both kinds of baths is tonic, and one comes
forth feeling like a Rocky Mountain antelope. I know of no place in this country
The Swimming Pool, Glcnwood Springs, Col.
to equal Glenwood Springs for delights, and I predict that it will shortly become one
of the great resorts for health and pleasure."
—
Rev. Frederick Campbell.
The party will remain at Glenwood Springs for several hours, and it will cer-
tainly prove to be one of the most delightful "rest" places of the entire Tour. Ofcourse we will dine at the palatial Hotel Colorado.
Leaving Glenwood Springs we press on toward Salt Lake City.
SCENERY EN ROUTE TO SALT LAKE CITY,
The space of over one hundred miles intervening between the Grande and Greet)
Rivers resembles a billowy desert, and is especially interested for its wild and peculiar
characteristics. Close by, on the north, are the richly-colored Book Cliffs, while
away to the southward the snowy groups of the Sierra la Sal and San Rafael glisten
in the distance. Between them may be distinguished the broken walls which markthe Grand Cafion of the Colorado, scarcely fifty miles away. Beyond Green River
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 23
and Castle Valley commences the steep ascent of the Wasatch Mountains, and the
beautiful in Nature again appears.
Near the Azure Cliffs, so called from the color of the clay, the Green and Grand
Rivers join to form the sublime Colorado, which empties into the Gulf of California.
Beyond is Castle Caiion, at the entrance to which stand two towering sandstone
shafts which rise to the height of 500 feet, looking like monstrous castles,
with battlements, bas-
tions, and turrets
guarding the way, and
just wide enough
apart for the train to
pass between. The
caiion which follows
is another of sublime
beauty. Great walls
and dome-appearing
rocks lift on either
side in appalling
grandeur, and the
tourist is deeply im-
pressed with the sub-
limity of the scene.
After a few miles
through this grand
gorge the train
plunges into theheart of the Wasatch
Mountains, and then
emerges into the
beautiful and fertile
valley of Utah, in the
centre of which lies a
long, blue sheet of
water, Utah Lake.
Guarding the way
to Price River Cahon,
through which the railroad runs into the very heart of the range, stands Castle Gate,
similar in many respects to the gateway in the Garden of the Gods. The two huge
pillars, or ledges of rock composing it, are offshoots of the cliffs behind. They are
of different heights, one measuring 500 and the other 450 feet from the top to the
base. Once past the gate, and looking back, the bold headlands forming it have a
new and more attractive beauty. They are higher and more massive, it seems, than
•when we were in the shadow. Huge rocks project far out from their perpendicular
faces. No other pinnacles approach them in size and majesty. They are landmarks
Castle Gate, Utah.
24 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
up and down the caiion, their lofty tops catching the eye before their bases are
discovered.
Soldier Summit is the next striking feature on the route to Salt Lake; then comein quick succession the Red Narrows and Spanish Fork Caiion. These are all char-
acterized by beauty and grandeur; they are full of charming contrasts, soft contours,
and whispering waters.
Utah Valley resembles, in its Arcadian loveliness, the vales of Scotland, and is a
mountain-girdled, well-cultivated park.
Utah Lake lies in the centre of the valley of the same name. It is a picturesque
sheet of clear, fresh, water, to the north of which lie the Mormon towns of Provo and
Springville. The scene is an entrancing one. Eastward the oblong basin is shut in
by the Wasatch Mountains, and on the west is the Oquirrh Range. Northward are
low hills, or mesas, crossing the valley and separating it from that of the Great Salt
Lake, while in the south the east and west ranges approach each other and form blue-
tinted walls of uneven shape. To the left of this barrier. Mount Nebo, highest and
grandest of the Utah peaks, rises majestically above all surroundings. Its summit
sparkles with snow, its lower slopes are wooded and soft, while from it, and extend-
ing north and south, run vast, broken, vari-colored confreres. The valley is like a
well-kept garden; farm joins farm; crystal streams water it, and scattered about in
rich profusion are long lines of fruit trees, amid which are trim white houses. Salt
Lake City is visible, and beyond slumber the waters of the Great Salt Lake.
At Salt Lake City the party will remain for a full day, giving ample time for visit-
ing the places of interest about the city, also for a run out to Soltaire Beach, on
Great Salt Lake,—included in the Tour.
Salt Lake City, the interesting city by the great salt sea, is a veritable garden.
Low and picturesque adobe houses harmonize in their cool, quiet tones with the ex-
tensive orchards of fruit and gardens of flowers which surround them. Back upon a
"bench," and several hundred feet above the city, is Fort Douglas, the flag of the
Republic standing out in bright relief against the Wasatch. The Oquirrh Mountainsshut in the valley to the west, the Great Salt Lake, 20 miles away, glimmering in the
sunlight like a stream of silver. The great object of interest to the tourist and
stranger is Temple Square; here are situated the great ecclesiastical buildings of the
Mormon Church.
THE GREAT SALT LAKE.
The most wonderful feature of this wonderful Tour, the mightiest marvel of all-
marvelous Utah, an ocean of majestic mystery clad in beauty divine, is Great Salt
Lake, the American Dead Sea. Among all earth's weird wonders in water it has but
one rival or peer—the miracle-made sea whose waves of doom and oblivion roll over
Sodom and Gomorrah. Think of a lake from 2,500 to 3,000 miles in area, lying a
thousand miles inland, at an altitude of 4,250 feet above the sea level, whose waters
are six times as salt as those of the ocean; and, while it has no outlet, four large rivers
pouring their ceaseless floods of fresh water into it without raising its mysterious sur-
face a fraction of an inch, or ever diminishing, so far as chemical analysis can de-
AT GREAT SALT LAKE.
26 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
termme, its indescribable saltiness. Where does all the water go? Where does allthe salt, that no streams can freshen, come from? Where are the vast saline maga-zines from which it draws its everlasting supplies? One may stand upon its shores
and ask a thousand suchquestions, but no answercomes from its mysterious
depths, in which nothinglives but death and silence.
It may seem preposter-
ous to talk of the finest sea
bathing on earth a thousandmiles from the ocean; but
truth is no less truth be-
cause it appears absurd. Thesea bathing in Great Salt
Lake infinitely surpasses
anything of the kind oneither the Atlantic or Pacific
Coasts. It is a prompt andpotent tonic and invigorant
of body and mind, and then
there is no end of fun in get-
ting acquainted with its
peculiarities. A first bath in
it is always as good as a cir-
cus, the bather being his or
her own amusing trick mule.
The specific gravity is but a
trifle less than that of the
Holy Land Dead Sea, the
actual figures with distilled
water as unity being, for the
ocean 1.027, for Salt Lake,1. 107, and for the Dead Sea,
1. 1 16. The human body will
not and cannot sink in it.
You can walk out in it whereit is fifty feet deep, and yourbody will stick up out of it
like a fishing cork from the
shoulders upward. You cansit down in it perfectly secure
AT r , .
where it is fathoms deep.Men he on top of it with their arms crossed under their heads and smoke their cigarsIts buoyancy is indescribable and unimaginable. Any one can float upon it at the first
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 27
trial; there is nothing to do but lie down gently upon it—and float. But swimming is an
entirely different matter. The moment you begin to "paddle your own canoe" lively
and—to the lookers-on—mirth-provoking exercises ensue. When you stick your hands
under to make a stroke your feet decline to stay anywhere but on top; and when, after
an exciting tussle with your refractory pedal extremities, you again get them beneath
the surface, your hands fly out with the splash and splutter of a half-dozen flutter
wheels. If, on account of your brains being heavier than your heels, you chance to
turn a somerset and your head goes under, your heels will pop up like a pair of frisky
didapper ducks. You cannot keep more than one end of yourself under water at once,
but you soon learn how to wrestle with its novelties, and then it becomes "a thing of
beauty" and a joy for any summer day. In the sense of luxurious ease, with which it
envelops the bather, it is unrivaled on earth. The water is as clear as crystal, with a
bottom of snow-white sand, and small objects can be distinctly seen at a depth of 20
feet. There is not a fish or any other living thing in all the 2,500 or 3,000 square miles
of beautiful and mysterious waters, except the yearly increasing swarms of summer
bathers. It is the ideal sea-bathing place of the world.
After an invigorating plunge in Great Salt Lake, we return to the city, and again
take up our journey westward toward the Alkali Desert and the Sierra Nevadas to
Sacramento, California, our next stop of any importance.
The Tour has been so arranged throughout as to pass through the finest scenery
by daylight, and the deserts by night. Just beyond Terrace, Utah, lies the great Al-
kali Desert, the greater portion of which is crossed before we stop the next morn-
ing, at Reno, Nevada, for breakfast. Soon
after leaving Reno we are in the heart of ^ jf-=
the Sierra Nevadas, stopping at Summit,
on the very crest of the Range (with ocean
level 7,017 feet below), for lunch, and in
the afternoon we delight ourselves with
the magnificent scenery of the Sierra Ne-
vadas, especially that which opens before
us in the descent of the range toward Sac-
ramento. Magnificent caiions, yawning
precipices, innumerable snow sheds (one
series being 42 miles in length). In-
describably grand. For many days to
come we will be in the midst of mountains.
The whole State of California seems to be
made up of mountain ranges, but wait un-
til your eyes behold the wonderful valleys
which have made California "the land ot
sunshine, fruit, and flowers."
The party will remain at Sacramento,
California, for the entire day, Sunday, July Qth, a day of rest that will prepare the party
for the last stage of the going journey, from Sacramento to Los Angeles. Hotel head-
Hotel Van Ntiys, Los Angeles.
28 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
quarters will be the Golden Eagle, one of the finest in the city. Then on to
Los Angeles, arriving at the metropolis of Southern California, Monday, July loth,
at 4 p. M.
While at Los Angeles the party will take their meals at the splendid new hotel,
Van Nuys, northwest corner Main and Fourth Streets.
The National Educational Association Convention will be in session from July
nth to 14th, and, of course, the party will remain at Los Angeles, with Hotel VanNuys for headquarters, during all of that period.
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.
During most of the period occupied by the story of California the large district,
comprising about one-fourth of the State, was regarded as a desert. It is now the
remarkable country known distinctively as Southern California.
This country alone, of all the territory of the United States, except southern
Florida, is really described by the much-used term, "sub-
tropical." Lacking much of being a hot country, and
with a summer whose days are nearly all characterized
by the trait of being warm in the sunshine and cool in the
shade, there is yet never any actual cold in winter or op-
pressive sultriness in summer. Nearly all the products of
the tropics grow here in astonishing vigor and profusion.
Most of the beautiful plants and trees of foreign lands
have been imported, and flourish. It is in effect the out-
of-doors quick-bed and hot-house of America. Flowers
delicate, rare, and costly everywhere else, here thrive
and climb and grow large. Annuals become perennial,
pulpy stems become wood, things that should die in
autumn grow all winter. The fig and the olive have
always presented to us the idea of something foreign,
semi-biblical and anti-Saxon. Here they are commonand hardy trees, with innumerable others of foreign
foliage that line the avenues of towns like Pasadena and
Riverside, and adorn the yards and walks of Los An-
geles.
The sensations of South California are peculiar, and
have often been described. A renowned resort for in-
N' \ JS*"' ? iAi-.^Ji- valids and tired people, industry has accompanied and
[V M .jL ."^ ...jI^j. -« «% ^i|out-run the health seeker. The commercial products of
the country have long been established in the markets,
and this product is immense. What the nation needed in
all those things that were once luxuries, and are now daily
necessities, come from here. The orange, the lemon, the
fig, and the raisin grape, are among the common staples.
Mt. Lowe Railway, near
Los Angeles.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 29
Millions of gallons of wine are produced. The valley lying between mountain ranges
is a distinctive feature of the topography, and each of these valleys is a place unique to
the unaccustomed
—the old miracle
has been exten-
eye, clothed in a
ness, above the
glow with color to
brown mountains,
crystallized exhala-
of the trained, the
cated, and the
wealthy havefound permanent
homes amid these
scenes, whosecharm cannot be
explained in
words, but appeals
to the dullestsenses. Los An-
geles, considered
as an instance,
contains morepeople who have
fixed incomes, and who have
found here the charm that de-
tains, than any other city of the
United States. Those who do
not remain come and go, and in
thousands of cases the pilgrim-
age is regular and annual.
There are a large number of
interesting sights within easy reach of Los Angeles,
and during the stay in that city, ample opportunity for
seeing them will be afforded.
During the time spent in Southern California the
members of the party will be entitled to a two-day trip
to Santa Catalina Island, the dates for that trip to be
selected by the members.
eye. A seeming miracU
of water from a rock—
sively performed. To th«
kind of beautiful arid
aridness these valleys
their edges against the
Cities have arisen like
tions. A multitude
refined, the edu-
Avalon and Vicinity, Santa Cata-
lina Island, So. Cat.
A MAGIC ISLAND-SANTA CATALINA.
Hardly three hours and a half from Los Angeles, Southern California, is Santa
Catalina, an island 22 miles long, a park in the Pacific, a mountain range at sea; a
30 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
Bh
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 31
Oakland, Berkeley, and Alameda extending far away to the misty hills. Beyond
question this house is the most nearly fireproof on the Coast."
The site is a succession of hills. There is a group of these extending from the
ferries westward to the Clifif
House on the coast. Theelevations vary between 170
feet and 900 feet. Many are
named, as Mission Peaks,
Park Peak, Knob Hill, Tele-
graph Hill, etc. It was to
climb these hills of San
Francisco that the cable
street railway was invented,
and here it had its first suc-
cessful operation. Some of
them, as Knob Hill, are the
sites of the best residences.
Far more than the usual
number of minor attrac-
tions exist in San Fran-
cisco. Climate, location,
and the annual influx of
visitors have made plentiful
theatres, gardens, squares,
points, little voyages, etc.
A unique place in the famous Golden Gate Park. It was a few years ago a succession
of wind-blown sand-dunes. There are a thousand acres of it, it being three miles in
length and half a mile wide. Outside the tropics there can be found no such assort-
ment of unusual and unaccustomed plants growing out-of-doors; and perhaps no spot
in the world has lent itself so readily to unexpected features of attractiveness. Fromthe summit of the eminence called Strawberry Hill the sight that meets the eye is
unequalled. City, bay, ocean, and distant mountains are all within the view, and im-
mediately at hand the groves, walks, drives, arbors, and splendid vegetation of the
park itself.
Sutro Heights is near by; a kind of hill-top Arcadia that is free to the public.
Here, again, sand-hills have been converted into a garden.
Near-by resorts are reached by street cars, of which there are 220 miles of lines,
and by boats and ferries. Among these resorts are Sausalito (the place of willows),
the Golden Gate, Alcatraz (pelican) island. Angel Island, etc. There are in addition.
Mill Valley, Mt. Tamalpais, and Tamalpais (land of the tamal. The tamal is the
Spanish dumpling, made of corn meal, stuffed with minced meat and peppers, and
boiled in a casing of corn-husk) Tavern. There is the Presidio and the batteries,
whose late occupants are at this writing at Manila. There are drives by the Ocean
Beach roads, and pastimes and attractions for the description of which there is no
Hotel Pleasanton, San Francisco.
32 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
space in less than a good-sized volume. San Mateo (St. Matthew) is a beautiful re-
sort and hotel, less than an hour's drive away. Mill Valley and Mt. Tamalpais Scenic
Railway is an excursion for a day. It is a mountain railroad, not the diminutive
make-believe amusem*nt of summer parks, and is the most attractive of all the en-
gineering triumphs of its kind. More than eight miles are traveled to make an air-
line distance of three miles.
Chinatown is a locality every one has heard of. It is the only instance of its
kind, though other cities have such things in an attenuated form. Here is the actual
life, with all the vices and few of the virtues, of that vast decaying race, whose country
is being cut into slices and parcelled out by the nations of Europe. In these slummystreets is the display of all those race peculiarities that no other human being can
understand.
\
A Bird's-eye View of Hotel Del Monte.
From San Francisco the party will take the most delightful side trip included in
the Tour, viz.: The trip to Hotel Del Monte, at Monterey, on the Bay of Monterey.
En route to Del Monte, leaving San Francisco, the road enters the Santa Clara Val-
ley, flanked on the east by the Bay of San Francisco, and on the west by the brown,
rolling slopes of the Sierra Morena, and then the lofty, verdure-clad heights of the
Santa Cruz Mountains. The valley as far as San Jose, fifty miles from San Francisco,
is covered with almost a continuous forest of stately oaks. Embowered in the depths
of this great forest are romantic towns and villages, with their glowing wealth of
flowers, and the splendid country homes of millionaires set in the midst of parks and
flower gardens. Here, also, is the broad demesne of the Burlingame Club, and far-
ther along the red-tiled roof of the Leland Stanford, Jr., University is seen in the
distance through the dark green foliage.*
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 3^
A little farther on we see the Coast Range of mountains on the east, and the
Santa Cruz Mountains in the west, the former brown and verdureless, the latter
covered to the summits with forests. Then the Santa Clara Valley closes, and the
Valley of the Pajaro (pronounced Pah-hah-ro) opens out, with its orchards andsugar-beet farms, and the train and the Pajaro River enter a picturesque gorge side
by side, and shoulder each other for the right of way down to the Salinas Valley,
Del Monte Grounds.
noted for its sugar-beet and wheat farms. The broad Salinas River is crossed; then
comes a stretch of low, rolling hills which, in spring, are covered with a gorgeous
carpet of wild-flowers, and later in the brilliant yellow of the California poppy, cov-
ering thousands of acres; and then suddenly the train enters a mystical forest and
stops in the heart of an enchanted garden. This is the station of the Hotel Del
Monte.
The party will remain three days at
HOTEL DEL MONTE, MONTEREY.
While Monterey has always had the reputation, among old Californians, of being
the healthiest and most delightful spot in their State, it is only since the completion
of the Hotel del Monte (June, 1880), that tourists could have the comforts, enjoy-
ments, and surroundings which refined and cultivated people desire, while availing
thems.elves of its equable and salubrious climate. Since the opening of the Hotel
34 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
Del Monte, Monterey has been visited by thousands of tourists—from all parts of the
United States and Europe—who heartily indorse all that is said in behalf of this nowfamous resort.
There is probably no place upon the seashore in the State so replete with natural
charms as Monterey. Its exquisite beauty and variety of scenery is diversified with
ocean, bay, lake, and streamlet; mountain, hill, and valley; and groves of oak,
cypress, spruce, pine, and other trees. The mountain views are very beautiful, par-
ticularly the Gabilan and Santa Cruz spurs.
Near the edge of a beautiful park, 126 acres of undulating land within the sound
of the low murmurs of the waters of Monterey Bay, there rises above the mingled
Arizona Garden, Del Monte.
foliage of surrounding oak, pine, and cedar trees, a building of magnificent propor-
tions, constructed in the modern Gothic style. This is the magnificent Hotel Del
Monte. What can be said in sufficient praise of this marvelous creation?
This famous hotel has often been described. Perhaps it comes as near to being
the perfect resting-place of a perfect resort as there is on earth. Every advantage has
been taken of the original inducement, the climate. There is a garden of 126 acres, if
anything of the kind ought to be called a "garden." There are sensations in these
grounds, a feeling about the place that cannot be encountered elsewhere in all the
world. Even the inadequate photograph produces an impression not common in
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 35
its connection. It is very manifest that words are quite useless. Monterey and its
charms have never been really described in all the rhapsodies she has ever evoked.
The place is an all-the-year resort. In the winter one glides into it out of the
snow almost imperceptibly. Yesterday it was the Sierra Nevadas; to-day it is eternal
summer, backed
by glistening ^ ^~-~-^
mountains, andfaced by the shin-
ing sea.
There is an air
of misty antiquity
about the place as
W'ell. The people
who came first h:id
this in their blood
and have left it be-
hind them wher-
ever they have
been. One cannot
describe it, but it is
all over the Cali-
fornia coast, and
on the little square
peninsula of Mon-terey it is more
perceptible than it
is anywhere else,
and this notwith-
standing the fact
that all that has beei« done by man is
American, and comparatively new.
The seventeen-mile drive (included in
the Tour) is one of the chief attractions
of the Hotel del Monte, and it is undoubt-
edly the most remarkable highway in the
world. It skirts the entire peninsula of
Monterey, and throughout its entire length
is macadamized with the same material as
that employed on the walks and drives of
the hotel grounds. In constructing it to
furnish a rare pleasure to the hotel guests.
no heed was given to the heavy expense which the undertaking involved. The road
is hard, white, and clean, and is always free from dust and mud. It passes through
Monterey and Pacific Grove: tunnels the dense forest of pine and oak; overlooks
Hotel Del Monte.
k^l*^V
Along the Seventeen Mile Drive.
36 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
Mt. Shasta.
gorges and chasms in which huge waves tumble and roar; skirts the edges of dizzy
promontories overhanging the sea: brings into view the largest colony of sea lions
on the coast; penetrates the
depth of a remarkable cypress
grove; skims along past
beaches strewn with colored
pebbles; and then returns
through a solemn and roman-
tic cafaon to the starting point.
After spending three de-
lightful days at Del Monte,
the party returns to San Fran-
cisco, and at once prepare for
our journey northward to
Portland, Oregon, via the
famous Shasta route. Theschedule will be so arranged
as to arrive at Redding, California, for breakfast, for shortly after leaving that point
the beautiful scenery of the Shasta route begins.
In three hours we are at Castle Crags, in the heart of the Shasta region. Shasta
elevation, 14,442 feet, is
of course, the predomi-
nant, all-absorbing view
from the Crags' sum-
mit. Its majestic pro-
portions and longsweeping profile lines
are here exhibited to
splendid advantage, but
by and by the eye will
turn to sweep the circle
of the horizon, and what
a vast cyclorama of
grandeur it is! The
pen drops powerless at
any attempt of its de-
scription, for words
may be multiplied in-
definitely, and still
nothing has been said.
The grandeur of the
Crags themselves is
better appreciated from the cafion below or from the Castle Lake or Big Castle Creek
trails. These granite spires attain a much greater elevation than has been recorded 01
Along the Shasta Rcuie.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. Zl
them. As seen from the railroad near the Castella
traveUng northward), the great dome appears to
Canon headlands, the boldest and most abrupt view
seems to be the summit of the Crags, but there are
thousand feet higher, and are splintered and riven
In fact, Castle Dome and the Wintun Crags, as
dwindle into insignificance as compared with the h
ward of these points.
Meadows (the first view to be had
the extreme east, and the Wintun
of all, on the west. Apparently this
peaks back of these that rise over a
into all manner of fantastic shapes.
seen from the summit of Shasta,
igher peaks which lie to tlie north-
Mossbrae Falls and Shasta Soda Springs.
Traveling northward from Castle Crags the cafion becomes more rugged and pic-
turesque, the walls are more precipitous and the Sacramento river, confined in its
narrow, rocky, channel, rushes in turbulent white rapids over its stony bed.
The cozy little retreat of Upper Soda Springs, one mile above Dunsmuir, one of
the early-day resorts, is still a favorite haunt of pleasure-seekers, and it still affords
the same old-time cheer and hospitality that characterized it in the past.
The first object that particularly attracts the eye is Mossbrae Falls, which con-
sist of a great number of ice-cold rills that burst through the mountain sides in
graceful tresses, trickling down through the ferns and mosses, affording an altogether
hs^-^
ALONG THE BANKS OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
GILLESPIE'S POPULx^R TOURS. 39
unique variety of waterfalls. Their fountain head is undoubtedly located far up in the
snowy slopes of Shasta.
Making a sharp detour about three miles north of the Shasta Springs, the road
leaves the canon and the river, and, doubling upon itself, exhibits the wild grandeur
of the river scenery to splendid advantage.
After scaling the eastern wall of the canon the road turns again abruptly to the
left, and now all eyes are bent upon the great scenic lodestone of northern California,
Mount Shasta, the most satisfactory and unobstructed view of which is from Sisson
Station, Strawberry Valley.
There are five glaciers on Shasta, one on the south, two on the east, and two on
the north. The most extensive and interesting of these is the Whitney, which takes its
rise near the summit, flowing down to the east of Shastina, and clearly visible from
Shasta Valley. The others, with possibly the exception of a glimpse of Konwakiton,
on the south near the Red Rocks, cannot be seen from the railroad. The lesser peak,
called Shastina, has a well-defined crater cap at its summit, about three-quarters of a
mile across, and 1,500 feet deep.
The party will arrive at Portland, Oregon, Saturday morning, July 22d, and im-
mediately upon arrival will be transferred by carriage to the magnificent Hotel Port-
land, for breakfast, after which the steamer, "Regulator," is boarded for a delightful,
restful day on the Columbia River. The trip will extend to Cascade Locks, and re-
turn.
From the deck of the steamer the most beautiful views can be had of Multno-
mah Falls, Oneonta Falls, Mount Hood, Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens, and the
Cascades of the Columbia.
Upon leaving the steamer we go at once to "The Portland." This establishment is
one of the finest hotels on the Pacific Coast. It occupies a whole square in one of the
pleasantest sections of the city. Dinner, Saturday, will be served at The Portland,
and also the three Sunday meals, for the party will spend Sunday, July 23d, in Port-
land. Although we use our Pullmans for sleeping purposes, yet, we are to have
the freedom of the hotel—the same as if we slept as well as dined there. This is true
01 all the hotels at which we stop throughout the entire trip.
Early in the morning, Monday, July 24th, our train drops quietly down to Seattle,
Washington. After breakfast we are to see the sights of the city, after which weboard the steamer, "Flyer," for a delightful three hours' ride across Puget Sound to
Tacoma, Washington, our train being sent around by rail, empty. After dinner, in
the evening, at Hotel Tacoma, we are ofif again, this time our destination being Yel-
lowstone National Park.
We are now traveling on the Northern Pacific Railroad, and after we leave
Seattle all meals en route between that point and St. Paul, with the exception of onemeal at Spokane, Washington, at Hotel Spokane, will be served in the superb dining
cjjTS in daily use on that line. The rates named in this Itinerary include breakfast anddinner on these dining cars, but does not include lunch. The latter is served a-la
carte. On account of lunch being served on this plan it was possible to include sameiti Itinerary.
/VV.T^--,?q^n
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 41
During Tuesday, the 25th, we travel in the States of Washington, Idaho, and
Montana—a ride full of interest, and relieved of all monotony.
We pass Lake Pend d'Oreille, an expansion of the Clark Fork of the Columbia
map^Tthe^ellowstone national park.1
i
stage Roads. __—— Trails.
Wagon " =^^ Geyser Formation
River It lies ensconced among the mountains in a most enticing sort of a way
with rocky islands rising above its mirror-like surface-one of the^most beautiful
lakes of the West.
42 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
The journey lies along the banks of the Clark Fork of the Columbia, a pictur-
esque stream rolling between lofty and pine-clad mountains. Three times does the
train climb up and down before the great chain of the Rockies is cleared.
We pass through the southern portion of the Flathead Indian Reservation, and
into the valley of the Jocko River. Then we find our train coiling about the
mountain sides in the effort to make distance, and at last the pass, the Corsican de-
file, is gained, and the Mission Ridge of the Rockies is passed. And soon we are
climbing again for the second crossing; after leaving Mission Ridge, we descend to
the foot of Bitter Root Valley, at Missoula, then down the valleys of Hellgate and
Little Blackfoot Rivers. Climbing up steadily we reach the summit of the second
range—the scenery entirely different from any through which we have passed. In
our descent we pass through the Mullan tunnel, and at the foot of this second range
lies the city of Helena.
On and on we go until the third
range is before us. Through continu-
ous mountains the road winds, reveal-
ing new and stupendous characters at
every turn. At some places the rocks
are prodigious in size, and of the most
interesting contour. We glide up the
grade of the Rock Caiion, steadily
climbing all the time, until we come to
the Bozeman tunnel, at an elevation of
5,565 feet. After this third range is
crossed, the road passes through a roll-
ing country, with park-like spots, and
at the foot of the range lies Living-
ston.
Wednesday morning, July 26th, we
arrive at Livingston; at this point we
take a barouche line down to Cinnabar,
where the Yellowstone Park stages
meet us, and then the delightful tour of
the Park begins.
Leaving our Pullmans at Cinnabar,
the party at once take the stages of the Yellowstone Park Transportation Company,
and at 12.45 P-M-. July 26th, we reach the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel—our first stop
in the Park.
THE YELLOWSTONE PARK.
It is now generally conceded that no spot in the world, of the same size, com-
pares with this noted resort in the variety and wonder of its scenic and physical phe-
nomena.
Lecturers spend much time and money to familiarize themselves with it so that
M
Libcrry Cap and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel,
Yellowstone National Park.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 43
they can recount to their audiences the wonderful things to be seen there. Artists ga
there to paint and photograph it. Literary men and newspaper correspondents go
there to write about it, and the people, the ordinary people, go there to see it.
In 1872 there was an Act of Congress passed setting aside forever, as a public
park, a section of country rectangular in shape, known as the Yellowstone National
Park. The boundaries of the park are in a certain way somewhat indefinite. Sixty-
two miles in length, from north to south, and 54 miles in width, with an area of
about 3,350 square miles, is about as close as we can come to accuracy at present.
The Park lies in the northwestern corner of Wyoming, with a narrow strip in
Montana and Idaho. It is about 1,000 miles from St. Paul and Duluth to the east,
and Portland to the west, 1,500 miles from Chicago, and about the same distance from
San Francisco.
The tourist season extends from June ist to October ist. The transportation
equipment is the best obtainable, consisting mainly of Concord coaches of a special
pattern, made to fit the
necessities of Park travel.
While being strong and
durable, they are light,
easy to get in and out of,
and open at the sides, so
that the passenger can
easily see the country
while»riding along.
Warm clothingshould be worn. This
applies both to outer and
under garments. Manychanges of elevation and
temperature are experi-
enced, and during a
good portion of each day for much of the Park season, one thus dressed may need no
outer wrap. A mackintosh, rubber coat, or light, and unless heavy, thick-soled shoes
are worn, rubbers are necessary to protect the feet. At Mammoth Hot Springs, and at
some other places, tinted glasses are needed to protect the eyes from the dazzling
eflfects of the light upon the white geyserite plains and terraces.
It will be found convenient to take a trunk as far as Mammoth Hot Springs. Amedium-sized grip or valise and a shawl-strap will hold all that is necessary for the
actual tour in the Park, if the tourist is properly clothed. Laundrying can be done
for tourists at the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, while the trip through the Park is
being made.
Telegraph messages can be sent from the Association Hotels to any part of the
world.
The mode of transportation in the regular Park tour is that of the stage-coach
entirely.
?%=***'
Cop.T-ighteJ. l^ili^, bvH. G. Peabody, Eostoii.
Ideal Terrace, Yellowstone National Park.
44 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
The Transportation Company, when so requested, the night previous to departure
of stage from Mammoth Hot Springs, will endeavor to seat persons, or parties of six,
eight, or ten in the same vehicle for tlie trip.
The Yellowstone Park Association conducts the hotels in the Park under
franchises issued by the United States Government, and after a large expenditure
of money, offers accommodations to tourists, with good service.
For one trunk between Cinnabar and Mammoth Hot Springs, there is a charge
of 50 cents. Valises, grips, etc., carried free. Twenty-five pounds baggage, carried
on stages through Park, free.
Note.—Charge for baggage is not included in our rates.
Five and one-half days are to be devoted to the Tour of Yellowstone Park.
Immediately after luncheon, July 26th, and as nearly as practicable at 2.30 p. m.,
the Association's guide will leave the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel for a two hours'
trip over the formation. All are invited to accompany him, free of extra charge.
THE PARK SCHEDULE.
July 26th.—Leave Livingston at 8.30 A. m.; arrive Cinnabar 10.30 A. M. ; leave Cin-
nabar at 10.45 A. M.; arrive Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel 12.45 P- M-> taking lunch,
dinner, and lodging.
July 27th.—Breakfast. Leave Mammoth Hot Springs at 8.00 a. m., arriving at
A Train of Park Coaches.
Norris at noon for lunch; leaving at 1.30 p. m., and arriving at Fountain Hotel, Lower
Geyser Basin, at 5.30 p. m., for dinner and lodging.
July 28th. ^—Breakfast at Fountain. Leave for Midway and Upper Geyser Basin
at 8.00 A. M. Lunch at Upper Geyser Basin. Return from Upper Geyser Basin to
Fountain Hotel at 4.30 p. m. Dinner and lodging at Fountain Hotel.
July 29th.—Breakfast at Fountain. Leave for West Arm of Yellowstone Lake at
7.00 A. M. Lunch at Lake, and leave the Lake after lunch for Yellowstone Lake Hotel
at Lake outlet. Dinner and lodging at Lake Hotel.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 45
July 30th.—Breakfast at Yellowstone Lake. Leave for Grand Canon at 9.30 A. M.,
via Sulphur Mountain; arrive Grand Canon at 12.30 p. m. Lunch, dinner, and lodging.
July 31st.—Breakfast. Leave Grand Canon at 10.00 a. m.; arrive Norris at 12.30
p. M. Lunch. Leave Norris at 1.30 p. m. ; arrive Mammoth Hot Springs at 4.30 p. m.
Dinner. Leave Mammoth Hot Springs at 6.30 p. m., arriving at Cinnabar at 8.00
p. M.; leave Cinnabar at 8.15 p. m.; arrive Livingston at 10.15 P- M-
Describing briefly the Park wonders, at Mammoth Hot Springs, we find that
the springs have built up a series of remarkable terraces on the west side of a Uttle
plateau, or basin, 1,000 feet above the Gardiner River, into which their waters flow.
The whole plateau and the steep slopes extending down to the river are mainly com-
posed of carbonate of lime deposits, resulting from springs now extinct. There are
no active geysers at the present time in this basin. The principal objects of interest
are the Liberty Cap and Thumb; the active springs. Pulpit Basins, Marble Basins,
and Blue Springs, on the main terrace; and Cleopatra's Bowl, Cupid's Cave, and the
Orange Spring, which are higher and further back.
ON THE ROAD TO THE GEYSER.
Leaving the hotel at Mammoth Hot Springs, the party will proceed to the Lower
and Upper Geyser Basins via the Norris Geyser Basin. This journey and the subse-
quent trips about the park will be made in comfortable Concord stages. The early
part of the ride lies over a road which ascends the banks of Glen Creek to the Golden
Gate. On the plateau above, from which a grand view is had of Electric Peak, Quad-
rant Mountain, Bell's Peak, and Mount Holmes, Swan Lake is situated. Near Beaver
Lake are the famous Obsidian Cliffs, a ridge of volcanic glass from 150 to 250 feet
high and 1,000 feet in length. We halt at the Norris Geyser Basin Hotel for lunch.
The principal attractions in the Norris Geyser Basin are numerous springs and a
few veritable geysers, the chief one being the Monarch. The Hurricane is a fierce,
roaring spring, and the Growler is the significant name of another vigorous steam and
water vent. These are brought under inspection soon after leaving the Norris lunch
station, and we proceed twenty miles further, past the beautiful Gibbon River Falls
to the Fountain Hotel.
THE LOWER GEYSER BASIN.
The chief points of interest visited by tourists in the Lower Geyser Basin are the
Fountain Geyser and Mammoth Paint Pots, which are situated near each other.
The Fountain is a very handsome geyser, and is in eruption five or six times daily.
The Paint Pots constitute one of the chief wonders of the park. In a crater forty
feet in diameter, there are mud springs, in which the material cast forth has the ap-
pearance of paint of different shades.
THE EXCELSIOR GEYSER AND PRISMATIC LAKE.
Next we drive to the Upper Geyser Basin, passing through the chief wonders of
the Midway Geyser Basin. These are Turquoise Spring, the Prismatic Lake, and the
J . Giant Geyser.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 47
crater of the Excelsior Geyser. A very expressive title given to this last-named object
is Hell's Half Acre. Two rivulets pour forth from the cauldron and from the neigh-
boring springs, and the deposits along their channels are very brilliantly colored.
The Turquoise Spring, near the Excelsior, is beautiful in its rich tints of blue, and
Prismatic Lake, also near at hand, is another wonderful display of color.
THE UPPER GEYSER BASIN AND ITS WONDERS.
About five miles above the Excelsior Geyser we come to the Upper Geyser Basin.
Here, in a nearly level tract inclosed by low hills, with the Firehole River flowing
through it, and mainly upon the east side, are found the chief geysers of this mar-
velous region. There are here forty gey-
sers, nine of which are large, besides manybeautiful hot springs. The Upper Basin
group includes, with others, the following:
Old Faithful, Castle, Bee Hive, Giant,
Giantess, Grotto, Grand, Oblong, Splendid.
Comet, Fan, Mortar, Riverside, Turban.
Saw Mill, Lion, and Lioness. These are
scattered over the surface of the basin,
chiefly along the river bank, Old Faithful
being at the southern extremity. The
Grotto, Giant, Oblong, and Castle are near
the road. The Bee Hive, with its hand-
some cone, is upon the opposite side of the
river from the hotel. Many beautiful
springs are in proximity to the geysers,
forming objects of interest second only to
the mammoth fountains of hot water. Old
Faithful makes a magnificent display, and is^
one of the handsomest geysers in the Park. Beehive Geyser, Yellowstone National Park.
i^Oi FROM iTHE LOWER GEYSER: BASIN TO YELLOWSTONE LAKE.;
Next we proceed via the Upper Geyser Basin to Yellowstone Lake. The road
twice crosses the Continental Divide, affording fine views of Shoshone Lake and a
portion of the Park not otherwise seen. Lunch will be served at "West Bay." or
'The Thumb,'' as it is often called.
YELLOWSTONE LAKE,
This magnificent sheet of water covers a superficial area of 139 square miles, with
an irregular shore line of about 100 miles, and is the largest lake in North America
at this altitude. The hotel, a new and commodious building, is built upon a blufif at
the entrance of a little bay near the outlet. The view from this point is charming.
48 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
THE FALLS AND THE CANON OF THE YELLOWSTONE.
Leaving the Lake Hotel early in the morning, we shall proceed to the CanonHotel, passing on the way a wonderful object known as the Mud Volcano. It is a pit
about twenty feet in depth, and from a spacious opening on one side at the bottom boil-
ing mud surges forth witl:j great
vehemence. The hotel will be
reached about noon. The Yellow-
stone Falls are two in number. At
the head of the Upper Fall the river
has a width of about 80 feet, and the
waters plunge over a shelf between
walls that are from 200 to 300 feet in
height, upon a partially submerged
reef 109 feet below. Dense clouds of
spra}' and mist veil fully one-third
of the cataract. Half a mile below
this fall is the Lower or Great Fall,
which is grander and more impres-
sive than the other, though not more
picturesque. Here the waters pour
into the abyss of the Yellowstone
Cafion, the sheer descent being 308
feet. The best views are had farther
down the trail, where many favoring
points afford an outlook into the
wonderful canon. Clouds of mist
ascend from the foot of the falls, and
the walls are covered with a rank
growth of mosses and alga. TheScenes in Yellowstone National Park,
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 49
cafion is considered the greatest of the park marvels. The gorgeous coloring of the
cafion walls is its distinguishing feature. The beholder is no longer left in doubt as
to the reason for bestowing the name of Yellowstone upon this remarkable river.
The beautifully safifron-tinted walls give the explanation. There are other tints in
opulence. Crimsons and greens are seen with all their gradations and blendings.
Emerald mosses and foliage form the settings for dashes of bright rainbow colors.
FROM THE CANON TO THE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS.
Leaving the Cafion Hotel Friday morning, we pass the beautiful Virginia Cas-
cade, one of the prettiest sights in the park. From the Norris Geyser Basin, where
we halt for lunch, we proceed to the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel.
FROM THE YELLOWSTONE PARK EASTWARD.
Departing from the hotel after dinner the same afternoon, Monday, July 31st, by
stage, the party will proceed to Cinnabar, whence the route takes us back to Living-
ston, on the Park Branch, and then eastward on the main line of the Northern Pacific
Railway. For some 350 miles we follow the banks of the Yellowstone. Custer,
Forsyth, and Miles City are places named in honor of military heroes.
Interior Dining Car.
50 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
Thirty-six miles east of Glendive and one mile west of Sentinel Butte we pass out
of Montana, through which we have journeyed on the main line of railway 780 miles.
The succeeding 367 miles lie within the State of North Dakota. Mandan, Bismarck,
Jamestown, and Fargo are the chief cities passed through. We enter the State of
Minnesota at Moorehead, and among the principal towns passed are Lake Park, De-
troit, Wadena, Little Falls, and Anoka. The party will be due at Minneapolis on
Wednesday morning, August 2d, at 8.00 a. m. After breakfast at Hotel Nicollet,
we have the day before us for sight-
seeing in the twin cities, Minneapolis
and St. Paul. A carriage ride about
the cities is included in the tour.
Leaving Minneapolis in the
evening, arriving at Chicago early
the next morning, August 3d. After
breakfast and dinner at Hotel Vic-
toria, we leave for Niagara Falls,
arriving at Niagara August 4th.
5 p. M. At Niagara Falls August
5th and 6th, leaving for Philadelphia
at midnight August 6th, armving at
the Reading Terminal 11 a. m.,
August 7th, 1899.
The Train will be made upexclusively of Standard Pullman
Palace Sleeping Cars (with one bag-
gage car) for the exclusive use of the
party. The Pullmans that are taken
from Philadelphia will remain with
us for the entire tour.
Meals en route. Between Phila-
delphia, Pa., and Denver, Col., all
meals will be served in Palace Dining
Cars. Three meals per day, with full
dining car service. Along the Den-
ver & Rio Grande Railway stops for
meals will be made at the fine hotels
operated by the Denver & RioGrande Hotel Co. Along the Southern Pacific Railway, where dining cars are
not available, the hotels are operated by the Southern Pacific Company, in-
suring first-class service. Between Spokane, Washington, and Minneapolis, Minn.,
meals will be served in dining cars, as already stated in this Itinerary. At Santa
Catalina Island, Del Monte, San Francisco, and during the tour of Yellowstone
^Interior View Standard Pullman Palace Car.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 51
National Park, the party will sleep in first-class Hotels, but during all the rest of the
tour our chartered Pullman Palace Cars will be used. At Los Angeles those desiring
room accommodations as well as meals, can procure same at $1.00 per day; where two
room together the rate will be even lower.
The Hotels used in connection with the Tour are strictly first-class. Notably
Victoria Hotel, Hotel Colorado, The Windsor, The Barker, Hotel Van Nuys, Hotel
Del Monte, The Pleasanton, The Portland, The Tacoma, The Spokane, Hotel Nicol-
let, etc., etc.
RATES.
A 38-day Pacific Coast Tour at the following remarkably low rates, from Phila-
delphia :
Trip No. I is the Tour fully outlined on the preceding pages, leaving Philadelphia
June 30th, 1899, and returning August 7th, 1899, and the rate for same, covering every
necessary expense, for the entire Tour, is as follows:
A.—Calling for one double berth in Standard Pullman Palace
Sleeper, and all necessary expenses for entire tour, $275.00
B.—Calling for one half berth in Standard Pullman Palace
Sleeper, and all necessary expenses for entire tour, $250.00
Trip No. 2 is the same as Trip No. i, so far as arrangements from Philadelphia
TO Los Angeles are concerned; but at Los Angeles to leave the party, returning
independently any time within the limit of the ticket (tickets will be good until Sep-
tember 4th) and the rates are as follows:
A.—Calling for one double berth in Standard Pullman Palace
Sleeper from Philadelphia TO Los Angeles and all necessary '
expenses of the tour TO Los Angeles, $145.00
B.—Calling for one half berth in Standard Pullman Palace
Sleeper, from Philadelphia TO Los Angeles and all necessary
expenses of the Tour TO Los Angeles, $132.00
NOTE.—The rates named for Trip No. 2 include return portion of R. R. ticket
back via the same route as that used going, or over Southern route if it is desired to
return that way; but if one desires to return independently of the party via the North-
ern route via Portland, Oregon, it will cost $12.50 additional for the R. R. ticket.
THE RATES FOR TRIP No. i INCLUDE.—Round Trip R. R. Ticket from
Philadelphia, Pullman Palace Car Service for the entire Tour, all meals en route, all
the Side Trips and Carriage Rides mentioned in this Itinerary, all Hotel expenses
where Hotels are used, necessary transfers, the Tour of Yellowstone National Park
—
in short, every necessary expense for the entire Tour is included in the rates named.
52 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
RATE FOR TRIP No. I B " ANALYZED " :
Round Trip R. R. ticket between Philadelphia and Los Angeles,. $81.25
Arbitrary rate charged by Southern Pacific Ry. Co. on account of
returning via Northern route, 12.50
Tour of Yellowstone National Park, 49.50
Thirty-eight days' Board (meals served in dining cars and hotels
as per Itinerary) ; one-half berth in Pullman Palace Sleeper for
38 days, all Hotel accommodations, the following side Trips: over
The "Loop," up Pike's Peak through the Garden of the Gods,
to summit of Marshall Pass and return, to Great Salt Lake from
Salt Lake City, to Santa Catalina Island, to Del Monte, up the
Columbia River, and across Puget Sound; also all carriage rides
and transfers mentioned in Itinerary, 106.75
Total $250.00
The above rates are based on the supposition that Eastern R. R. lines will name
a one-fare rate to Chicago, in connection with the one-fare rate already named by
Western lines from Chicago to Los Angeles. No one doubts but that this will be
done.
The Railroads used will be as follows: The Philadelphia & Reading, Lehigh
Valley and Grand Trunk to Chicago; the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific to Denver;
the Denver & Rio Grande to Grand Junction, Col.; the Rio Grande Western to Og-
den, Utah; the Southern Pacific to Los Angeles, and via the Shasta Route to Port-
land, Oregon; the Northern Pacific to Minneapolis, Minn.; the Chicago, Burlington
& Quincy to Chicago, and the Grand Trunk, Lehigh Valley, and Philadelphia &Reading back to Philadelphia.
Just a word about Pullman rate on regular trains. The regular rate for one double
berth in Pullman Palace Car, round trip, between Philadelphia and Los Angeles,
is $41.00 for continuous passage; no stop overs are allowed. Returning via Portland,
$5.00 additional. When one desires to stop of¥, therefore, at different points of interest
along the route, the Pullman rate would be considerably higher. "Our" cars are
chartered for the 38 days; the low rates named would not be possible in any
other way.
The Yosemite Valley.—Any one desiring to make the tour of the Yosemite
while in California and at the same time keep with the party for the remainder of the
Tour, can easily do so by sacrificing the Santa Catalina Island trip, one day in LosAngeles, and one in San Francisco.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 53
Advance Payment.—When registering for the Tour an advance payment of
$10.00 is required, the balance, according to the trip selected, to be paid on or before
June 26th, when R. R. tickets and "little Red Book" of coupons, covering entire
Tour, will be ready for delivery.
Remember that the number for the party is positively limited to 150, and in view
of the fact that more than 200 people were turned away from the California Tour in
'97, because their applications came in too late, if you desire a place, it would be well
to act promptly.
Correspondence solicited. Address (or call),
639-643 N. Broad St., Phila., Pa.
ECHOES OF '^ir
From the President of the Penna. C. E. Union.
"I want to thank you for the grand Western trip, which we took under your man-
agement in 1897. The company and the accommodations were all that could be de-
sired. We can never lose the joy and the pleasure we experienced in beholding for
ourselves the grand wonders and the indescribable beauties of the Westland, with its
awe-inspiring canons and gorges, its mountains and plains. The Shasta route, Mon-terey and Yellowstone Park were veritable wonderlands of beauty and delight. Every-
thing of beauty in the Westland will hereafter be to us a joy forever.
"Nor can I forget your untiring and ever-courteous efforts to make our trip what
it was along the whole route, one of comfort and enjoyment."
Clarence E. Eberman.
Lancaster, Pa., April 12th, 1899.
From the General Secretary Penna. State Sabbath-school Association.
"I shall always cherish as one of the most delightful memories of our wonderful
Christian pilgrimage the entire absence of all care we felt for our personal safety and
comfort in your wise and willing hands. No bargaining for places at crowded
points, no worries about routes, no scurrying to see the best—all was provided for,
and we rested as we tramped and wondered and feasted. May thousands more have
the great pleasure we had in your charge."
Chas. Roads.
Philadelphia, April nth, 1899.
"Having visited the C. E. Convention at San Francisco, Cal., 1897, and after
that accompanied the party to Seattle, Portland, Columbia River, Spokane, Yellow-
stone Park, Minneapolis, and Chicago, it gives me pleasure to say that the itinerary
previously arranged was most successfully conducted. Your courteous manage-
ment, in my judgment, was a great success. Those who were associated with me dur-
ing the trip often speak pf your kindness, courteous helpfulness, and satisfactory ar-
rangements. My only regret now is that I cannot accompany you on other tours you
are projecting.
"I wish you continued success in conducting future parties."
H. Mosser,
Pastor First Reformed Church.
Reading, Pa., April loth, 1899.
54
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 55
"Referring to the California tour of '97, I was perfectly satisfied with the way it
was planned and conducted. I think you did everything which it was possible to dofor the comfort and convenience of the tourists."
R. L. Montgomery.Philadelphia, April loth, 1899.
A "Minute" from the Advisory Board of the Philadelphia C. E. Union.
"Resolved, That in accepting the report of Mr. W. A. Gillespie, upon the business
of his office as Transportation Agent in the transfer of the Philadelphia Union and
also the Pennsylvania Union to San Francisco and return, and in the examination
of all matters which by his desire has been brought to our attention, we find cause for
hearty congratulation and commendation.
"Resolved, That we hereby thank Mr. Gillespie for the faithful performance of
the onerous duties placed upon him, and his courteous patience and kindness to our
members while away from their homes, and we desire to express our admiration for
the ability displayed by him in arranging the outgoing and returning trips to the
great satisfaction of the Pennsylvania and Philadelphia delegates."
(Signed) T. J. Grant Shields,
President.
(Signed) E. M. Dilkes,
Recording Secretary.
From the General Passenger Agent of the Northern Pacific Railway.
"I am very glad to learn that you will organize and personally conduct a Pacific
Coast and Yellowstone Park party during the coming summer.
"It is no small undertaking to plan and carry out successfully an itinerary em-bracing 10,000 miles of rail travel, especially when your party numbers 500 or morepeople, and yet this is exactly what you did in '97, when you used our Line eastbound
from Portland, Oregon, to St. Paul, including the Yellowstone trip.
"In arranging with you for the proper movement of this people I found your
plans so intelligently made in the best interests of the tourists under your care that it
relieved us of a vast amount of work, secured for your party the best possible serv-
ice, and thus gave to the individual members the greatest possible satisfaction.
"It may interest you in this connection to know that your party of '97 was the
largest that has visited the Yellowstone Park since it was thrown open to the public,
and I hazard nothing in saying that no party, large or small, has ever seen the Park
more thoroughly.
"We shall be glad to see you on the Line again this coming summer, and you'
may rest assured we will do everything in our power to make the journey for your-
self and party a thoroughly enjoyable one."
Chas. S. Fee.
St. Paul, Minn., April nth, 1899.
TOUR No. 2.
The Great Lakes, Georgian Bay, Etc,
THIS Itinerary will reach many who, in former years, have accompanied me on
Christian Endeavor Side Trips in connection with International Conventions,
but I want it distinctly understood that this Tour has no connection whatever
with the C. E. Convention at Detroit in July. The Philadelphia Union, owing
to an experimental change in its policy, will conduct no
side trips whatever in connection with the Convention in
question. Any one desiring to attend the Convention
should communicate with W. H. Ball, 50 E. Washington
Lane, Germantown, Philadelphia.
Recognizing the fact, however, that many of our
friends will be disappointed at not being able to again
place themselves under the fostering care of the Union
for the delightful Side Trips so easily accessible from Detroit, I have arranged for
any such, and their friends, the delightful Tour outlined on the following pages.
The Trunk Line Associations have agreed upon a one-fare rate to Detroit, which
enables me to name an exceptionally small sum to cover every necessary expense for
the entire Tour.
It will be noticed that the schedule is so arranged as to keep clear of the Con-
vention delegations, so that all "crowding" will thus be avoided.
Briefly outlining the Tour, the party will leave Philadelphia from the Reading
Terminal, Twelfth and Market Streets, Tuesday evening, July 4th, at 7.30, in Standard
Pullman Palace Cars, the route being via the Philadelphia & Reading and Lehigh
Valley Railroads to Niagara Falls, arriving at Niagara at 8 a. m., July 5th, there to
remain for the day, ,with Hotel Imperial as headquarters.
NIAGARA FALLS.
"Of all the sights on this earth of ours which tourists travel to see—at least of all
those which I have seen—I am inclined to give the palm to the Falls of Niagara. In
the catalogue of such sights, I intend to include all buildings, pictures, statues, and
56
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 57
wonders of art made by men's hands, and also all beauties of nature prepared by the
Creator for the delight of His creatures. This is a long word; but, as far as my taste
and judgment go, it is justified. I know no other one thing so beautiful, so glorious,
and so powerful. I would not say that a traveler, wishing to do the best with his
time, should first of all places seek Niagara. In visiting Florence he may learn almost
all that modern art can teach. At Rome he will be brought to understand the cold
hearts, correct eyes, and cruel ambition of the old Latin race. In Switzerland he
will surround himself with a flood of grandeur and loveliness, and fill himself, if he
be capable of such filling, with a flood of romance. The tropics will unfold to him
all that vegetation in its greatest richness can produce. In Paris he will find the
Niagara Falls.
supreme of polish, the nc plus ultra of varnish, according to the world's capability
of varnishing; and in London he will find the supreme of power, the ne plus ultra
of work, according to the world's capability of working. At Niagara there is that fall
of waters alone. But that fall is more graceful than Giotto's Tower, more noble than
the Apollo. The peaks of the Alps are not so astounding in their solitude. The
valleys of the Blue Mountains in Jamaica are less green. The finished glaze of life
in Paris is less invariable, and the full tide of trade round the Bank of England is
not so inexorably powerful."
—
Anthony Trollope.
By spending the night at Niagara we have the opportunity of rambling through
Niagara Park during the evening hours—the most delightful of the day.
After breakfast in the morning, July 6th, we again resume our journey via the
Grand Trunk Railway, and after four hours of travel through the western part of
Ontario, we arrive at Detroit, Mich., the beautiful "City of the Straits." The city
58 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
was founded in 1701; the oldest white settlement in the West, and no other city on
the American Continent has a history so full of incidents, with romantic and tragic
interests.
Wayne Hotel and Pavilion.
The party will remain at Detroit, with the Wayne Hotel for headquarters, until
the following morning, for our steamer will not leave for Mackinac Island until 9.30
A. M., Friday, July 7th.
S=4=*<?< ^:»*-M^==e<«t
3:
Detroit River Scenes.
There is so much of interest to be seen in Detroit that the stop of 20 hours will be
fully appreciated.
In the evening, after dinner at the Wayne, the members of the party wend their
way toward the wharf of the Detroit & Cleveland Navigation Company, where the
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 5y
magnificent steamer for the Lake trip to Mackinac Island is boarded; the steamer
does not sail until morning, but the night is to be spent on board, staterooms having
been secured and assigned far in advance.
JUST A WORD ABOUT "OUR" STEAMER.
With the Detroit & Cleveland Navigation Company safety,, comfort, and speed
are the prime considerations. The steamers are of steel, practically new, constructed
in the strongest pos-
sible manner, pro-
-'^ pelled by powerful
engines, and are the
largest and fastest
side-wheelers on the
Lakes. Equipped
with a complete sys-
tem of water-tight
compartments to pre-
vent sinking in the
event of accident,
with a fine outfit of
life-boats, rafts, and
lifcypreservers, andhandled by a crew of thoroughly skilled, reliable men, the element of safety is raised
to the highest attainable maximum.
/'
" Our " Steamer for Mackinac Island.
Parlor of D. & C. Line Steamer for Mackinac Island.
6o GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
As to comfort—the main cabins are broad, roomy, elegantly finished in mahogany,
thoronghly ventilated, lighted by electricity, and furnished only as trained judgment
and money can furnish them. The staterooms, with their double berths, and the par-
lors have room in abundance, are well aired, electric
lighted, have the best of mattresses and blankets, and
the whole are well cared for by skillful feminine hands.
Also equipped with barber shop, bath rooms, etc. The
large dining-room has seating capacity of no persons,
and is situated aft below the main deck. It is ventilated
by the McCreary system of pipes, which pass through
packed ice. As the kitchens are forward of the dining-
room and connected with it only by hallways and
swinging doors, all suggestions of the mixed and un-
desirable odors produced therein are removed from the
other parts of the boat. The cuisine equals that pro
vided in the best hotels, and the service is prompt and
intelligent.
In the construction and subsequent operation of
these splendid steamers every device that human ingenuity has suggested has, after
practical test, been placed in use. From stem to stern, from wheel to wheel they are,
to use an expressive street phrase, "up to date."
Early in the morning, July 8th, we enter upon one of the most delightful divisions
of the Tour, viz.: the run through the Detroit and St. Clair Rivers. The summerhomes of the well-to-do already dot the banks of both streams for their entire length,
and are multiplying with each year. Through the beautiful St. Clair Flats region wefind these homes in the greatest abundance. Club-houses, a score or more, of striking
design, and cottages and mansions of equal picturesqueness and greater numbers,
are patronized and inhabited by Detroiters almost entirely. It is a water community
pure and simple, and might appropriately be termed Detroit's Venetian suburb, even
though it is thirty miles distant from that city. And the islands—emeralds in a darker
setting of the same color—must not be forgotten. With them the rivers are thickly
populated, and their part in the picture furnished by nature is an important one.
En Route to Mackinac.
ON LAKE HURON.
On the open lake little is seen except passing vessels until a way port is made.
If the traveler is awake and interested, he can gather a good idea of the vital industries
of each port by a general survey of what lies within immediate reach of his eye, for
nearly the whole of each town is laid out on the lake shore. It requires but a glance
to show him that Sand Beach has a fine harbor of refuge—the finest on the lakes
—
and that lumber cuts no figure in the business of the town, which is rather of a general
nature. It is lumber, and nothing else, apparently at Alpena, Cheboygan, and Oscoda.
Business at St. Ignace is of a general character. Observation and study of this coast
line is always interesting, and cannot but prove of future value.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 6i
The ear-marks of the hunter and the camper-out may be seen all along the St.
Clair River and at every port on the route. Many club and miscellaneous tents are
pitched on the American bank of the river between Algonac and Port Huron,
the men who are seek-
ing a variety of summer • "
sports as well as a sum-
mer rest, appear in large
numbers at the various
lake ports bound to and
from the well-stocked
forests, lakes, and
streams with which Up-
per Michigan abounds.
Our steamer is due
at Mackinac Island at
12.15 P- M., July 8th
(Saturday), where the
party is to remain (with
the exception of the side trip to the "Soo") until Tuesday evening, July nth, with
"The Grand" for hotel headquarters.
Mackinac Island is very appropriately called "The Fairy Isle."
Bird's-eye View of Mackinac Island.
THE NATURAL SCENERY OF THIS ROCK-BOUND ISLE,
Whose clif¥s of calcareous rock rise to a height of 300 feet above the water, is of
the order that quickly captivates the true artist, and delights even the eye of the layman
who cannot technically balance beauty with proportion. Nature, usually so sparing
in her gifts to toiling, commonplace mankind, was in her mellowest, most charming
mood when she erected this monument to the Creator. It abounds in a tumble of
white clififs, in cavernous recesses, in which all is shade and repose-inviting, in foliage
of the richest. With every rock, with every glen, the red-skinned child of the forest
has associated his story, and it is always a story whose romanticism, pathos, and tender
beauty have been the source of inspiration for the best poets, dead and living, of our
land.
Here and there on the island may be observed vestiges of the dense forest of iron-
wood, oak, and rock maple which once covered it, but the young growth which has
taken its place is developing sturdily. The paths and promenades of this wonderful
little island overlook dainty vistas of valley and lake, and lead to spots freighted with
beauty and romantic interest. For the camera and palette lover these views of land
and water in their everywhere striking relation possess peculiar interest. In the flat
country, with which the Middle States abound, the artificial must needs be called mto give tone and efifect; here nature has but to be copied as she is. No wonder the
aborigines fought so bitterly against the encroachments of the powerful white. Amaz-ing it is that his leave-taking of those wondrous caverns and hills has not ere this
62 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
formed the theme of a story that in the hands of a gifted writer should appeal mightily
to the finer sensibilities.
AS A HEALTHRESORT.
Thus was the late
Dr. Drake impressed
with the island: "The
island is the most
important summerresort to which wecan direct the atten-
tion of the infirm or
the fashionable. Asa health resort it is
unsurpassed. Its
cool, dry air, and the
living streams of pure
water which gush from the lime rock precipices, are just what are needed to bring
back the glow of health to the faded cheek, and send the warm currents of life dancing
through the system, superseding all necessity for nauseating iron, sulphur, and epsom
salts."
Habitual visitors will tell you that ennui is an affliction that no man complains of
The Grand Hotel.
Scenes on Mackinac Island.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 63
here. He finds too much variety. Satiated with artificial pleasures—for the beauty,
wealth, and fashion of many metropolitan cities congregate here—he has but to seek
near at hand, the aid of nature.
Of the island as a health resort, Dr. Mills, once post-surgeon, said: "From the
hour of entering Lake Huron, your feelings will indicate that you have passed beyond
the reign of miasma, dyspepsia, blue devils, and duns, and you look back upon the
whole of them with gay indifiference, or a feeling of good-natured contempt, as every
turn of the steamer's wheel carries you farther into the temperate and genial climate
of the lakes, and away from your perplexities. Under these influences real diseases
may abate, and the imaginary ones be forgotten, and this salutary mental excitement
will not soon die away, for the historic associations, not less than the surrounding
Glimpses of Mackinac Island.
scenery, are well fitted to maintain it." Dr. Mann says: "A few whiffs of the air
would make your lungs give a hygienic laugh. Children are crazy with animal spirits
and eat in such a way as to demonstrate the paradox that the quantity contained maybe greater than the container."
Dr. Hammond, the famous physician, says: "I have no hesitation in saying that
it is the best summer resort of which I have any knowledge, for persons whose nervous
systems are run down, or who desire to be built up and strengthened."
The Grand Hotel, "our" Hotel while at Mackinac, the best on the island and
one of the largest in the country, stands high up on a hill-side, facing the straits. It
opens July ist and closes September 20th, and has room for 1,000 guests at one time.
Its rates are $4 to $5 a day. Representing a capital of $300,000, this immense building
64 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
is 650 feet long and five stories high. Its architecture is of the "Old Colonial" style,
the distinctive features being a colonnade portico, 30 feet wide, upon which the win-
dows of every floor open. The interior is well arranged and fully equal to every
demand of the most fastidious taste. The lower floor is occupied exclusively by the
dining-hall, drawing-room, and private parlors, w'ith the large rotunda ofiice in the
center. The dining-hall is a mammoth apartment, capable of seating 600 people. It
occupies the space of two stories, the vaulted ceiling being 27 feet overhead. The
guest rooms are large, light, and airy. Each front suite is provided with a private
balcony. The hotel is lighted by gas and electricity, heated by steam, and provided
with elevator and electric call and fire-alarm bells. It is also supplied with barber
shop, bath rooms, steam laundry, and a first-class livery. A metropolitan orchestra
Scenes En Route to the " Soo " Locks
is in constant attendance. The grounds have been made very attractive and a casino
constructed for indoor sports. Sunday, July 9th, will be spent at Mackinac Island,
at the Grand Hotel.
On Monday morning, July loth, the party will take a side Trip by steamer to the
celebrated "Soo" Locks, at Sault Ste. Marie, the route being through the beautiful
scenery of the St. Mary's River. The steamer, after rounding Mackinac Island, fol-
lows the northern shore of Lake Huron as far as Detour, at the entrance of the St.
Mary's River, where the real interest begins. The river is 62 miles long, and is com-
posed of a succession of beautiful straits and broad lakes. It is almost entirely shut
in by high hills, which rise from the water's edge. In the many beauties and eccen-
tricities of the stream and its outline, it is freely compared to the Hudson and other
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 65
famous rivers. The channel is narrow, crooked, and shallow, however, and must be
passed by daylight. This is usually accomplished at dawn, this line being the only
one which makes it at mid-day. The river is full of islands, and there are many
popular hunting and fishing resorts along its course. At 6 p. m. we arrive at Sault
Ste. Marie, a city of 10,000 inhabitants. There is much of interest about the old place.
It lies on the left bank of the river, just below the famous government ship canal,
built for the purpose of passing the St. Mary's Rapids. The government works are
exceedingly interesting. The immense and perfect structure of masonry, the water
power which runs all the machinery necessary to operate the monster gates of the
lock, and the dynamos which furnish the electric lighting, are perfect in all their details,
and well display man's ingenuity. The lock of this canal is 650 feet long by 80 feet
wide, and has a lift of 18 feet. Considerable tonnage may therefore pass through at
one time. The rapids are a source of much curiosity and awe, and to "shoot" them
in an Indian canoe is the acme of delight. Fort Brady, erected in 1823, is an old and
important U. S. military post. The party spends the night at Sault Ste. Marie, re-
turning to Mackinac the next morning.
After another delightful afternoon and evening at Mackinac Island, at 10 p. M.,
July iith, we board one of the Royal Mail steamers of the Great Northern Transit
Co., for the Tour among the 25,000 islands of beautiful Georgian Bay.
*MONG THE 25,000 ISLANDS OF THE GEORGIAN BAY.
"Where the north star shines most clear,
And our devious course we steer
'Mong the isles of the Georgian Bay."
This great arm of Lake Huron, almost rivaling the lake itself in extent, is a wildly
romantic body of water. Its northern and eastern shores are particularly attractive,
I
Steamer Entering Channel (Georgian Bay).
66 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
the waters here being thickly studded with islands, while numerous coves, bays, and
inlets contribute to the tortuous windings of the channels of this wondrous archipelago,
and to the picturesqueness of the scenery. The islands in the bay are not less than
25,000 in number, and range in size from the merest dot on the water to the Great
Manitoulin, many miles in extent. They also present a picturesque variety, as to their
general appearance. Some are bare and rocky; others are clothed with verdure to the
very water's edge. Here, one rises abruptly in castellated pinnacles, and anon
another is densely wooded, with inviting shades, ofifering delightful shelter to
the camper.
Historical points are numerous and many an anecdote has been handed down
from generation to generation. The Gap or Little Detroit is a very narrow passage
Among the 25,000 Islands of Georgian Bay.
between jutting rocks rising on either side which may almost be touched as we pass
through. Here the war-like Iroquois Indians massacred a band of Ojibways, the
descendants of whom are still to be found around She-bon-on-ing and Wikwemi-
kong Bay.
Campment d'Ours, the home of the bears, is an island situated between St. Joseph
Island and the mainland, and was the Indians' favorite hunting grounds for bruin.
In passing Devil's Elbow, Pictured Rocks, and through Devil's Gap to Richards
Landing we get a good view of St. Joseph Island, which was a British garrison during
one of the Indian wars. It was surprised and captured by the Americans and their
Indian allies, who burned the fort and carried off the ammunition; afterwards the
Americans traded it to the British for Mackinac Island. Passing between Neebish
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 67
and Sugar Islands into the American channel of St. Mary River, we find it is very
crooked and sufficiently dangerous to make it interesting.
The steamer touches at the principal ports along the north shore and on the large
islands, and the tourist finds frequent opportvmities of enlivening the trip by a run
on shore, or a flying visit to some of the many points of interest to be found on the
journey. The Indian villages are objects of no little curiosity, and their inhabitants
turn out en masse when the boat comes in, some of the women with their basket and
bead-work to offer the passengers, while the men and children have freshly-caught
fish, and berries of various kinds, from which the boat's stores are sometimes re-
plenished.
The Tour of Georgian Bay will take about two days and two nights, arriving at
A Quiet Nook Among the 25,000 Islands.
Collingwood, Ont., one of Georgian Bay resorts, at night, July 13th. The next morn-
ing, July 14th, the party leaves Collingwood via Grand Trunk Railway, for an all-rail
ride to the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence. At Niagara Falls our cars are
again on the tracks of the Lehigh Valley Railroad, the line used until Rochester, N. Y.,
is reached, when the New York Central Railroad engine is attached for the remainder
of the run to Clayton, N. Y., where a steamer conveys the party to the Thousand
Island Park, in the midst of the Thousand Islands, where the party is to remain for
three and one-half days, with the beautiful new Columbian Hotel for headciuarters.
The Thousand Islands, scattered in profusion along the great St. Lawrence
River from Cape Vincent and Clayton to Alexandria Bay and beyond—the channel
68 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
being in some places 12 miles in width. Numerical titles are usually exaggerations,
but this is a notable exception, the islands being in reality more than 1,800 in number,
varying in size from the small mass of rock to picturesque islands miles in extent,
and overspread with luxuriant vegetation. Nearly every island, large or small, is the
pleasant summer home of its fortunate owner, and many beautiful cottages, of quaint
and elegant design, or the more pretentious and stately castle-like structures of en-
during stone, resplendent in gay streamers and pennants of every color, add to the
A Picturesque Terrace (Georgian Bay).
liveliness of the scene an indescribable attractiveness. The refined taste which has
transformed these island wilds into pleasure resorts is nowhere more noticeable than
in the many provisions for comfort and enjoyment which surround these summer
homes, and inake them pictures of delight and real contentment. This whole region
is one of incomparable beauty, and just the place one seeks for rest and refreshment
during the warm days of summer.
Bathed by the clear blue waters of the St. Lawrence, and fanned by gentle breezes
laden with the balmy odors of pine, fir, and balsam, the islands are at all times delight-
fully cool and refreshing. A spirit of rest and freedom from care seems to pervade the
place, while the fascinating beauty of the scene gives it the charm of a spectacle in
fairyland or the beautiful visions of a dream. As a resort the Thousand Islands
grow in popularity with each year, and the many improvements made each season
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 69
have added so much to the natural attractions of the islands that the transformed
scene appears more like the creation of a romance.
During the summer the Thousand Islands teem with life, and the river is every-
Among the Thousand Islands.
where dotted with little yachts and pleasure boats, which flit hither and thither among
the islands, in search of new delights. Pleasure cruising in canoe or boat is always
I he Columbian Hotel.
charming, and always romantic; now floating in some sequestered bay, the surface
of the water dotted with the pure white blooms of the water lily; now resting on the
70 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
oars in the shade of a wooded island, until the deep whistle of a passing steamer, or the
shrill screech of a steam launch breaks the spell.
With the dusk the scene changes. As the last rays of the setting sun gild the
heights of the islands the glow of lights from one island is soon followed by a bright
response from another, then still another, each island marked by a distinctive device
in colored lights, until the spectacle must rival that of old Venice in the carnival season.
The most thrilling ride of this delightful Tour is still before us, the daylight ride
down the St. Lawrence to Montreal.
Leaving the wharf at Thousand Island Park early in the morning, July i8th, break-
fast that morning being served on board the steamer.
Scattering islands, many of them quite as wild as when the white man first voy-
Among the Thousand Islands.
aged here, are passed all the way
down to Brockville, where the
Thousand Island system termi-
nates in a group called the "Three
Sisters."
Brockville is a substantial
Canadian city of 7,000 people. It is one hundred and twenty-six miles from Montreal
by the river. One notes the large number of fine private properties along the rugged
river front, both above and below the town. Immdiately opposite is the American
town of Mornstown.
Fourteen miles beyond, the Canadian town of Prescott and the American city of
Ogdensburg stand z'is-a-z'is upon the banks of the river. Prescott has a population
of about 3.000, and bears the solid air for which all Canadian towns are famous.
Ogdensburg, the largest and most affluent place in northern New York, merits
more than a passing notice. It is the focal point of three lines of railroads, and a
depot for a vast transhipment of grain and lumber from the West.
Five miles below Ogdensburg is Chimney Island, where vestiges of French forti-
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 71
fications still exist, and immediately below are the first of the series of rapids, the
Gallopes, and shortly thereafter the Rapide de Plat is met. Neither of these swift
places are especially exciting, but they serve as a preliminary to the great Long Sauli
(pronounced long sou), which is next in order. A long reach of smooth water inter-
venes, however, during which we pass the small American town of Waddington and
the attractive Canadian city of Morrisburg. Just below this place is the battlefield
of Chrisler's Farm, where an engagement occurred in 1813, between British and
American forces, while the latter were marching to the capture of Montreal and
Quebec.
Below this point the steamer, well fitted for her daily task of breasting the wild
surges of the rapids, turns in the swift current, and a mile ahead the passengers see
Among the Thousand Islands.
the white, stormy waters of the Long Sault stretching from shore to shore. Now the
real fun begins. There is a sudden hush to the monotone of the steamer's pulsations.
We are in the grasp of the current. Extra men are at the wheel, and others are aft
in charge of a spare tiller. If you are inclined to be nervous now, remember that
steamers have been going down here ever since 1840, and no passenger vessel has
ever been wrecked in the rapids.
The first plunge is over a cascade at "the cellar," and is exhilarating. We are no
sooner into the vast expanse of broken waters than fresh sensations await us. Lookat the shore! ]\Iy, how we slide along. Now across our way a vast green billow,
like the oncoming surge of the ocean tipon soundings after a nor'easter, disputes our
passage. It is of the beautiful green where the sunlight shows through its wedge-like
cap that one sees upon the coral beds of Nassau, or at the deep centre of the Horse-
shoe Fall at Niagara, or in drug-store jars. It does not rise and fall, advance and
72 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
recede. It simply stands there forever, a vast wall of water through which we cleave
our way with a fierce, brief struggle, only to meet a second, a third, a fourth like wavebeyond. Guide books have falsely told a generation that the Long Sault is nine
miles in length. It is supposable that the first guide-book writer was told this by a
reckless deckhand, and recording it, it has been taken as gospel by every subsequent
cribbing guide-book writer who has touched upon the subject.
The veritable rapids are scarce a mile and a half in length, but there is a con-
tinuance of reasonably swift water for several miles further. The actual fight between
the steamer and the angry billows is over in less than three minutes.
As the good steamer emerges upon the broad Lake St. Francis, dinner is an-
nounced, and the reader may safely forego his outlook for a time, as the transit of
the lake will occupy an hour and a half at least, as it is 25 miles long.
Among the Thousand Islands.
Over upon the left shore of the lake stands the village of Lancaster, and whenthe river tires of its breathing spell, while loitering in the guise of a lake, and resolves
to be a river once more, it is dashed ofif impetuously just after leaving the village of
Coteau du Lac, which you have just seen peeping above the trees, and carries us head-
long down the "Coteau Rapids," which are about two miles long, then the "Cedars,"
three miles, and the "Cascades," of which the Split Rock Rapid is the most formidable
and dangerous looking. At the Coteau we pass under the great international bridge
recently completed. There is enough, indeed, within the score of miles covering this
part of the day's experience to afiford excitement and interest for a year of ordinary
travel. The village at the foot of the Cascades is Beauharnois, and now a second lake
is met, as if the river dreaded the final plunge down the famous Lachine.
"There's Mount Royal," says a passenger, as we sit upon the forward deck.
We see in the blue distance its bold outline traced against the mellow northernr
L
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 73
sky, the profile of the promontory, and from its base, a thin, wide cloud of smoke
drifting away from the city of Montreal. Smoke escaping from a thousand chimneys,
the funnels of great steamships, and all the fuel-consuming devices of a great industrial
centre.
Onward forges our speedy craft, and ere long the troubled waters of Lachine
are seen far ahead, a snowy breastwork across our path. The lake is again a river.
We are abreast the village of Lachine, where the canal from Montreal debouches
into the St. Lawrence. The muddy Ottawa pours its tide into the pure blue
waters in which we have voyaged since morning, as the Missouri pollutes the
Mississippi.
A little while later and we are in the vortex. The current grows swifter and
swifter. All the bosom of the river is covered with reefs and rocks. All the mightv
One of the Thousand Island Channels.
outpouring of the stream is pent up in a single channel. The boat heads this way and
that, then the bottom of the river seems to fall out. Down we plunge! and onward,
straight toward a rocky islet! Which side? Just as destruction seems imminent, the
vessel sweeps round to the right and shoots like an arrow between two sunken ledges.
We are through, and maj' look back up the watery hill we have descended, and admire
the courage of the men who first navigated this wonderful channel.
The once marvelous Victoria Bridge comes into view. In a few moments westeam beneath it and swing around the dangerous shoals that bar the terminus of
deep water navigation, and heading up stream are speedily at the lock, within which
the steamer rises to the upper level, and we are then speedily transferred to the Bal-
moral Castle Hotel, Montreal, one of the very best in the city, which is to be the head-
quarters of the party until Thursday morning, July 20th. The entire day (July igth)
being free for sightseeing in and around Montreal.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 75
Montreal is the metropolis of British North. America, and a city of great interest
to the tourist both in winter and summer. Its population is made up of French
and English people, the former predominating. There are many attractions, and the
view to be had from the summit of Mount Royal is one of the greatest. Among points
of interest are the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the English Cathedral, the new RomanCatholic Cathedral, Bonsecours Market, the Court House, Custom House, Hotel
rrvuMONTREAL^-^A.ARCH.WELSH , PROPRIETOR
Dieu Hospital, and various
institutions and publicbuildings. There are many
beautiful drives around the
city, the roads resembling
those to be found in
Europe.
Thursday morning,
July 20th, the party leaves
Montreal by rail via NewYork Central Railroad for
the return trip, via the Adi-
rondack Mountains. After
a short run the train goes humming through the mountains.
The Adirondack Mountains occupy an area of 1,400 square miles in the north
eastern part of New York State, lying in the counties of Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis,
St. Lawrence, Franklin, Clinton, Fulton, Oneida, Saratoga, Washington, Essex, and
Warren.
The x\dirondack Plateau or mountain region proper has a general elevation
of about 2,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is traversed by five distinct mountain
ranges with well definded intervening valleys. Over 1,300 lakes and mountain ponds
are scattered throughout its area, while from its central watershed twenty rivers diverge
in every direction.
This famous and interesting territory is separated into two great sections known
as the mountain region and the lake region. The mountain belt occupies the eastern
and southern part of the plateau, while the lake region stretches itself over the western
and northwestern oart.
76 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
THE MOUNTAINREGION.
This mountainbelt, whose greatest
width is about 40 miles,
extends from Lake
Champlain in a south-
westerly direction.
Five separate mountain
chains, or ranges, run
parallel with each other
through the entire belt,
at a distance of seven
or eight miles apart.
The first of these ranges
encountered on the east
is the Luzerne range,
which begins at Ticon-
deroga on Lake Cham-
plain, and runningsouthward encircles
Lake George, crosses
the Hudson at Glens
Falls and disappears in
the hills near Saratoga.
The next range to the
westward is that of the
Kayaderosseras, which
ixtends from Crown
Point, through Warren
County, ending in the
lowlands of Saratoga.
The third chain is
known as the Schroon
range, and extends
from Westport through
Essex and WarrenCounties, and ends in
the valley of the Mo-
hawk. Next, and still
to the westward, is the
Boquet range, which
starts also from Lake
Adirondack Scenery.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. tj
Champlain, and crossing the centre of Essex County, extends through the southwest-
ern part of Hamilton County, along the border of the east Canada Creek. The fifth
range starts at Port Kent, on Lake Champlain, runs straight through Essex, Her-
kimer, and Hamilton Counties to the Mohawk River, where it terminates in the rocky
scenery at Little Falls. This chain is more than loo miles in length, and is the back-
bone of the Adirondack Mountains, its ridge dividing the watershed of the St. Law-
rence from that of the Hudson and Champlain.
THE LAKE REGION,
Or second grand division referred to, stretches westward from the base of the main
Adirondack range to the borders of the forest, a distance of 50 miles. It includes
the tract lying north and west of a line drawn from the Fulton chain, through the
Raquette and Long Lakes to the Saranacs. This network of lakes and ponds is a
wonderful and attractive feature of the great wilderness, adding a rare diversity to
the scenery. They are so closly connected that trips of 100 miles can be made in
guide boats, the water journey being broken only by short "carries" seldom exceeding
two miles in length. These water-routes, combined with mountain trips and Adiron-
dack stage rides, make this region a perpetual delight to the summer tourist. No-
where else in the world is there such a combination of wild, grand scenery, and de-
lightful, easy travel, lying at the very threshold of civilization.
Our only stop in the Adirondacks will be at Trenton Falls.
TRENTON FALLS.
In scenery Trenton Falls is the rarest combination of the beautiful and grand. It
possesses the beauty and grace one misses at Niagara, and the grandeur and strength
so lacking at Watkins and Havana.
Rev. David Spencer, of Scranton, Pa., after viewing the falls for the first time in
the summer of 1887, said: "Many persons pass through, and perhaps some dwell in
Utica, who have never seen the Trenton Falls. For the information of such, especially
the following description is written of a recent trip through this succession of beautiful
surprises: Leaving Moore's Hotel, with cane in hand, we passed through the woods
a hundred yards, and reached the top of what is known as the lower stairway. De-
scending this at easy stages, we passed down 127 steps into the great flume. On either
side, as if laid by mason's hand, the walls of Trenton limestone towered above 150 feet
or more. Through this flume the Kanata River (the Indians called it Kauyahoora,
meaning leaping water) passes over this rocky bed, while we, to view the beauties
of its falls, pass up along its water over a pavement of flagstone, laid by nature herself,
solid, even, and deep. We pause ever and anon to admire the flowers, ferns, and
mosses which adorn the wall of this old gray glen. A walk of a few steps brings us
to the narrows, where the waters are crowded into a limited channel and rush along
with great force. You hear the roar of falls near by, but cannot see them, for, as you
look up the gorge, the bold face of a solid rock, forty feet high, extending as far as
78 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
you can see, entirely across the chasm, greets your gaze. You turn a point and off at
one side you come upon the first, or Sherman Fall, named after Rev. John Sherman,
Trenton Falls.
who made this spot a public resort. This fall has made for itself a semi-circular
alcove, into which it leaps to a depth of forty feet. Climbing the stair-like steps cut
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 79
out of the solid rock, aided by a chain fastened by strong staples, you pass around
the circular gorge the fall has worn out under the shelving wall, and stand by the
precipice over which the fall plunges with deafening roar. We reach a point where
we can look over the Sherman, down through the chasm to the narrows several
hundred yards. It is an impressive scene; but turning our back upon this great hall-
way of the waters, we round the point, and instantaneously we are charmed with the
sight of the High Falls. Awe-inspired and surprised we stand and take in the marvelous
view. It is a picture in water-colors, framed in rock, fringed with greenness, spangled
with wild flowers, and canopied by the blue vault of heaven. This fall is triple and
has a leap of seventy feet. Passing up to it you seem to have entered a three-storj-
palace. The leap to the ground floor is over a perpendicular height. Climbing to
the second floor you see the water passing down over a terraced-like slope in a foam
of whiteness like alabaster. Thence up to the third floor, where the great plunge is
made. Here the water, at one part of the falls, passes in solid volume, having the
color of amber, which in the sunlight is singularly beautiful, looking like a cascade
of melted topaz, while at other places the water passes as a thin, silvery sheet, like a
bridal veil of beauty. As you sit under the shadow of the great overhanging walls
and look upon the cataract, the sunlight falls with delicious efifect upon the waters.
You listen entranced to the diapason of this great organ in nature's cathedral glen,
while you get an imposing idea of power, beauty, and harmony, and even of fury.
Sitting in silence we gazed upon these falls, and down into the chasm filled with spray,
arched by a most magnificent rainbow, and we allowed the glory of the whole scene
to infiltrate our minds, until we thought of that new 'song,' which is as the voice of
many waters, 'yet sweet as harpers harping with their harps.' Passing above wecome to the Milldam Fall. A few rods beyond we come to the Alhambra Cascade, a
marvel of uniqueness and beauty. We enter its domain through a walled gateway
of rock, rounded as if by an artist's skill. Here the waters leap and foam and play,
much to the pleasure of the observer. Just beyond this is a peculiar column-like rock
crowned with capital, and bearing above it an immense wall of stone, into whose clef?
trees have rooted themselves, and tower-like spire towards the sky. Walking on, wepass through the Rocky Heart, and a real gem to look upon, and thence on until weclimb the steps of the upper stairway to the clifif. A mile beyond this, at Prospect,
is another fall, entirely different from any we have passed. Over the face of a solid
wall of rock, fully 100 feet in width, passes the water, behind whose veil-like thinness
the layers of Trenton limestone are distinctly seen.
"Retracing our steps, we take the upper path through the native forest which
skirts the long chasm, back to the hotel for rest and recuperation, as well as to think
over the beauties of this one of nature's masterpieces in the magnificent work with
which her galleries are adorned. Lovers of the beautiful and picturesque in nature
should not pass unvisited these lovely Falls."'
After the visit at Trenton Falls the New York Central train is again taken
for a short run to Geneva, there to connect with the Lehigh Valley train for Philadel-
phia, arriving at the Reading Terminal Station at 7.48 a. m., July 21st.
8o GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
We are able to quote the following remarkably low rates for this delightful Tour:
Trip A.—Holder of "A" tickets is entitled to one Double Berth in
Standard Pullman Palace Sleeper between Philadelphia
and Niagara Falls going, and between Geneva, N. Y.,
and Philadelphia, returning; one berth in Outside State-
room on Lake and Georgian Bay steamers, and all neces-
sary expenses of the Tour as outlined on the preceding
pages, $81.50
Trip B.—Holder of "B" tickets is entitled to one Half Berth in
Standard Pullman Palace Sleeper between Philadelphia
and Niagara Falls going, and between Geneva, N. Y.,
and Philadelphia returning; one berth in Inside State-
room on Lake and Georgian Bay steamers, and all neces-
sary expenses as outlined on the preceding pages, $79-25
The rates named include railroad tickets from Philadelphia to Detroit, steamship
tickets from Detroit to Mackinac Island, and from Mackinac Island through Georgian
Bay to Collingwood; R. R. ticket from Collingwood to the Thousand Islands;
steamer ticket from the Thousand Islands to Montreal; R. R. ticket from Montreal
through the Adirondacks to Philadelphia. The rates named also include Pullman
accommodations and state-rooms on steamers as indicated, all meals en route, all hotel
bills, the side Trip to the "Soo" Locks—in short, every necessary expense for the entire
Tour.
It will be observed, from careful reading of this Itinerary, that only the best Hotels
have been engaged, insuring first-class accommodations throughout the entire Tour.
Remember that the number for this Tour is positively limited to 100* people.
We have state-room accommodations for only 100, so that the number that can be
registered is limited necessarily. "First come, first served," of course.
Advance Payment.—When registering for the Tour an advance payment of
five dollars ($5.00) is required, on account, the balance, according to trip selected,
to be paid on or before June 28th, when all tickets and "Little Red Book" of coupons,
covering entire Tour, will be ready for delivery.
An official railroad and steamer schedule for the entire Tour will be mailed, in
due time, to every one registering.
Address (or call),
639-643 N. Broad St., Phila., Pa.
ANOTHER CALIFORNIA ^97 ECHO.
"It gives me much pleasure to state, for the benefit of my friends and others who
are contemplating a trip to Los Angeles, California, to attend the National Educa-
tional Association's Convention in that city during next July, that Mr. W. A. Gil-
lespie, of 639 North Broad Street, Philadelphia, with great success, personally con-
ducted the Mammoth "97 San Francisco' Christian Endeavor Excursion (which I
enjoyed very much), and will, this summer, run a similar excursion from Philadel-
phia and intermediate points to the Educational Convention. Every proposition or
inducement he may offer in his circulars he will carry out to the letter.
"Railroad companies will sell you a ticket of transportation at certain scheduled
prices and agree to carry you to your destination safely and as quickly as possible.
Mr. Gillespie, however, did much better by us than that. He did not only carry us
safely and speedily at very much reduced railroad fares, but he also had, at all times,
our individual interests at heart; he made it his business to give us the best of every-
thing that could be had, and have us see all there was to be seen. His thorough ac-
quaintance with every inch of interesting territory along the route enabled him to so
plan the movements of his trains that we missed nothing that was good or that
was worth seeing. At certain points of special interest we would stop over just long
enough to relieve traveling fatigue, and enjoy small side trips, such as a run up the
charming, silvery Clear Creek Caiion in Colorado, an ascent to the top of old Pike's
Peak, as well as baths in the refreshing water of Great Salt Lake, and in the pools of
the Hot Springs, at Glenwood, Colorado—treats which no one can afford to miss on
his first trip to the Pacific Coast. Nothing to him was too much trouble to make
his party comfortable and contented. He always gladly listened to any complaints
about train hands or sleeping-car accommodations, and speedily adjusted the diffi-
culty if it lay in his power to do so. Too much credit cannot be given Mr. Gilles-
pie for the satisfactory and successful management of his excursions."
Respectfully,
H. S. BissEY, M. D.
1630 North Sixteenth Street, Philadelphia,
April i8th, 1899.
81
>
Vmec Vansi 4(i
TOUR No. 3.
The White Mountains and the Coast of Maine,
ONE of the most delightful "Short Trips" and at the same time one that is
usually expensive (this one is an exception, however) is that tour which makes
the White Mountains the centre of attraction, visiting incidentally Boston,
Mass., and Old Orchard Beach. Maine.
This is the Trip selected for our Tour No. 3, for the summer of '99.
The party (the number being limited to 50 persons) will leave the Reading Ter-
minal, Twelfth and Market Streets, Philadelphia, Monday, August 14th, at 1.30 p. m.,
for New York City, there boarding one of the magnificent Fall River Line steamers,
leaving the wharf at 5.30 p. m., for the delightful ride across Long Island Sound. At
9 A. M., August 15th, after a short railway journey from Fall River, Mass., the party
arrives in Boston, where the American House will be our headquarters. The party
will remain in Boston until the morning of the 17th, for two full days can be most
delightfully spent in this wonderful city. The many places of historic interest in
Boston and vicinity are too well known to make detailed mention at all necessary.
On the morning of Thursday, August 17th, the party will leave Boston, en route
to the White Mountains, a stop for dinner being made at Plymouth, N. H., the Gate-
way to the White Mountains. The Pemigewasset House will serve the dinner.
Plymouth, N. H., may be said to lay fairly within the gateway of the WhiteMountains region on the west. Situated near the junction of the Pemigewasset and
Baker's Rivers, it is indeed a beautiful New England village, in the midst of most at-
tractive scenery; nor is it without an interesting history of its own. In one of its
ancient buildings the voice of the young lawyer, Daniel Webster, was heard makinghis first plea before a jury. Its territory has witnessed many fierce conflicts between
its white settlers and the native Indians, for Indian villages were once more numerous
about here than are white residents at the present day. In the great hotel here,
Nathaniel Hawthorne met his death in 1864. Though not large in population the
place is a considerable trade centre, and has some manufacturers that have becomecelebrated in every mart in the Northern United States.
The mountain scenery about Plymouth is notably attractive. In the near neigh-
borhood is Mount Monadnock, and lofty peaks loom skyward all the way round from
this elevation to Mount Moosilauke. The opening into the Pemigewasset Valley is
a doorway of the town, so to speak; while beyond is Mount Prospect, from which the
Franconia and White Mountains, Osceola and White Face, the Squam Range, some
83
84 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
Sandwich peaks, with the waters of Squani Lake and Winnipesaukee outspread in the
intervals, form a succession of grandest features in the landscapes.
After several hours of delightful mountain travel we arrive at "Fabyan's."
So far as "the hearing of the ear" is concerned, "Fabyan's" is one of the best
known of all White Mountains locaHties to the general public. The origin of the
present establishment to be found there is as follows:
Previous to the year 1837 a hotel had stood upon, or near, the site of the present
Fabyan House. In that year came to the mountains Mr. Fabyan—who died some time
in the '70's—previously a market-keeper in Portland, and he became possessed of the
hotel, with about 250 acres of the original Crawford lands, in the midst of which it
stood. This hotel was burned in 1853. For a dozen or more years thereafter the site
remained empty, and then the present Fabyan House was built.
The site of the Fabyan House is upon the crest of what was known a half century
since as the "Giant's Grave." This was an eminence 300 feet long, 75 feet wide, and
50 feet high, smoothly rounded, and in shape like a well-kept grave-mound. The
scientific theory is that this mound was formed by the action of inland or ocean waters,
which gradually detached and washed away the loose earth from about the more rocky,
firm locality, and left the "grave" smooth and rounded by their action of centuries.
Within the memory of the older denizens of the mountains, the Giant's Grave and the
view from its top presented a far different appearance from any now obtaining. Then
the neighboring hills and lands were covered by a dense and heavy tree growth.
About 20 feet of the Giant's Grave were shaved off in preparing for the foundations
of the present hotel. The house itself is of excellent interior, roomy, well-ventilated,
and perfectly drained. The Fabyan farm occupies the intervale, and on all sides are
the features of modern hotel establishment which mark the caravansary of the present
day. Directly in front is the union depot of the Concord & Montreal and Maine
Central Railroads—in fact, this is the railroad centre of the mountains. The trains
running to the base of Mount Washington find here their starting point, and these
connect directly with the trains of the Mount Washington Railway. On every side
are drives and walks, the ample stables of the Fabyan affording always means for
transportation to any part not covered by the railway lines.
"Fabyan's" is always an animated locality. As it is the centre of travel for the
mountains, so it is the centre of visitation also; and few travelers visit the region, or
sojourn within it, who are not at some time guests at Fabyan's. All roads in the
mountains lead thither, and the great central office hall—60 feet square—of the hotel is
a grand rendezvous for the summer population.
The party will arrive at Fabyan's in the afternoon of August 17th (Thursday),
remaining until the next afternoon, when Mount Washington is to be scaled.
MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY.
This remarkable triumph of engineering skill, extending from the base to the
summit of Mount Washington, now renders a trip to the summit accessible to every-
body, and the fatigues attendant upon mountain climbing are here a thing of the past.
86 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
The novel road is constructed with an extra or centre toothed rail, into which the
cog wheel of the engine "meshes," and the train is thus enabled to climb the grade,
as no ordinary engine could possibly do. The trip occupies about an hour and a half,
and it is needless to say that the views afforded from the train are surpassingly grand.
Each train consists of one engine and a single car, the engine being always below the
car, to push in the upward journey and to hold it back in the descent. The safety
appliances on the train are such that an accident is well-nigh impossible, and not a
passenger has ever been injured in all the years the road has been in operation.
The traveler will note the changes in vegetation as the altitude increases, the
heavy forests giving way to stunted shrubs, and these in turn to mosses and lichens,
while at the summit the bare aijd desolate rock gives an idea of arctic climate, which
indeed docs prevail the larger part of the year.
The Summit House furnishes shelter to the visitor, whether his stay be for a few
hours only, or for days or weeks. The view from the summit is indescribable. Its
immensity is at first overwhelming. The line of vision bounds a circle nearly a thou-
sand miles in circumference; and within that circle are lakes, rivers, mountains, valleys,
dark forests, smiling villages, and in fact an almost endless variety of scenery, ever
changing as the gaze is directed to the different points of the compass. In a clear day
the distant glimmer of the Atlantic may be seen, ofif Portland harbor, to the southeast.
In the opposite direction, the horizon is broken by the Green Mountains of Vermont,
with a glimpse of the remote Adirondacks in New York. All around are lakes, moun-
tains, rivers, and villages. The view is greeted with a new picture at every turn, and
as the eye learns to distinguish distances it gradually dawns upon you that you stand
over a mile and a third above the level of the sea, at the highest altitude attainable
in New England without the aid of a balloon.
Thursday night will be spent on the summit at the "Summit House," so that the
coveted vision of sunrise on Mount Washington may be obtained.
The following description of a sunrise on Mount Washington is from the pen of
the author of "The Switzerland of America:"
"The grand, culminating view from this lofty point of observation is to be had at
the rising of the sun. ... At early dawn the inmates of the house are roused, and such
as choose to do so arise and dress, and take their position on the platform east of the
building, to watch for the first appearance of the 'golden orb of day.' Beneath you the
valleys are still in slumber, and a deep gloom is spread over all, in sharp contrast with
the light of dawn wliich already illumines the mountain peaks around you. Banks of
mist here and there indicate the location of bodies of water, and possibly overhanging
clouds may partially hide some of the mountain summits from view. All eyes are
turned expectantly toward the east, which is beginning to show a faint rosy tinge,
deepening every moment till it reaches a crimson or perhaps a golden hue, a fitting
couch from which the brilliant day-king is about to spring forth upon his glorious
reign. Suddenly one point in the eastern horizon grows more intensely bright than all
the rest, and the disc of the sun is then discernible, quickly increasing in proportions
until the broad face of the great luminary so dazzles the eye as to compel a withdrawal
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 87
of the gaze. Looking then into the valleys below, the effect is transcendently beautiful.
While the spectator is bathed in the full golden sunshine, the sombre shadows are just
beginning to flit away, presenting in the strongest possible manner the contrasts of
light and shade; and not until some minutes have elapsed does the new-born day
reach down into the deepest valleys to drive forth the lingering remnants of night."
Late in the forenoon, Friday, August i8th, the party return to "Fabyan's" for
dinner, and in the afternoon leaves "Fabyan's" again for the Crawford House, at the
Crawford Notch, White Mountainr.
famous Crawford Notch, where we are to remain for two and one-half days, spending
Sunday, August 20th, at this point.
The Crawford House is one of the very finest in all New England, and situated
as it is in the very choicest of the White Mountains region, one can readily imagine
how delightful a resort it must be.
Monday morning, August 21st, the party will leave Crawfords for the ride to
Portland and Old Orchard Beach, Maine. Portland is reached early in the afternoon,
and then it is but a short run to Old Orchard Beach, where the party will remain for
88 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
three and one-half days, with the superb Old Orchard House for hotel headquarters.
The Old Orchard House is by far the finest hotel on the beach. The reader has doubt-
'less noted, ere this, that otily the best of everything has been provided for the Tour.
The coast of Maine is abundantly rich in all that goes to make a complete summerresort. Speaking of Casco Bay, of which the harbor of the City of Portland forms a
part, the following extract from the pen of Edward H. Elwell, in his admirably written
work entitled Portland and Vicinity, will be found truthful and concise, and conveys
as well as words can, some conception of these beautiful resorts by the sea:
"Here is a little bay, extending from Cape Elizabeth to Cape Small Point, a dis-
Old Orchard House, Old Orchard, Maine.
tance of about i8 miles, with a depth of about 12 miles, more thickly studded with
islands than any water of like extent on the coast of the United States, there being
something over 300 islands in Casco Bay. Unlike the low sandy islands of the
Massachusetts coast, these are of the most picturesque forms, while bold headlands
and peninsulas jut far out into the waters. There is the greatest possible variety in
the form and grouping of these islands. Some lie in clusters, some are coupled to-
gether by connecting sandbars, bare at low water, while others are solitary and alonel
Nearly all of them are indented with beautiful coves, and crowned with a mingled
growth of maple, oak, beech, pine, and fir, extending often to the water's edge, and
reflected in many a deep inlet and winding channel. In the thick covert of the firs
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 89
and spruces are many green, sunny spots, as sheltered and remote as if far inland,
while beneath the wide-spreading oaks and beeches are pleasant walks and open glades.
"For the most part they rise like mounds of verdure from the sea, forest-crowned,
and from their summits one may behold on the one hand the waves of the Atlantic,
breaking almost at his feet, and on the other, the placid waters of the bay, spangled
by multitudinous gems of emerald, while in the dim distance he discerns, on the
horizon, the sublime peaks of the White Mountains. It is impossible to conceive of
any combination of scenery more charming, more romantic, more captivating to the
eye, or more suggestive to the imagination."
Extending east from the Saco River, along the shores of Saco Bay, is Old
Orchard Beach, the longest and widest solid sand beach on the Atlantic Coast. It is
seven miles long and thirty rods wide, making a natural driving course and prom-
enade, which, in summer, is thronged with vehicles and pedestrians. As the beach
is hard and smooth, and the ocean free from treacherous under-currents, surf bathing
here is free from danger—even children can bathe in safety.
From the earliest history of the country. Old Orchard has been favorably known
as a health resort; and since 1840, when it was opened to the public by the establish-
ment of the Old Orchard House, it has annually increased in public popularity, and
records among its patrons the most distinguished names on this continent.
The present spacious Old Orchard House was erected in 1876. It has ample
accommodations for 500 guests, and is fitted with all modern inventions for their
convenience and comfort. Electric bells and speaking tubes for all rooms, passenger
elevator, telegraph office, etc. The Staples family has been identified with the hotel
interests of Old Orchard for more than half a century.
This house stands upon an eminence about fifty rods from the ocean, to which
leads a broad plank promenade. It overlooks the bay, bordered by beach and studded
by green islands, and the surrounding country of forest, fields, and flourishing farms.
From the eastern piazza the view is especially grand and impressive. From the wave-
beaten beach the blue ocean broadens out till, in the dissolving distance, it mellows
into sky. Before the vision are passing the swift-winged craft of pleasure, the steam-
propelled palaces of travel, and white-robed ships of commerce bearing, from country
to country, an exchange of thoughts and commodities, continually traveling upon this
broad, swelhng highway of nations.
The New Steel Pier at Old Orchard Beach is one of the finest in the world and
the longest in this country. It is 1,770 feet in length, and will furnish all the con-
veniences for boating and fishing to make this one of the very best on the coast for
water sports. It will be open at all times for promenading at a moderate admis-
sion fee, and music will be furnished through the busy parts of the day and evening.
At low tide Old Orchard Beach is a solid sand surface for many miles, and
thousands here assemble to enjoy the salubrious air and gayety of the scene. Pensive
pedestrians, joyous children, poetic lovers, meditative scientists, health-seeking in-
valids, and family-filled equipages throng this wonderful, wave-washed highway, and
the surf is alive with jubilant bathers, for whose accommodation, in close proximity
to the water, the Old Orchard Bathing Pavilion has been erected.
90 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
When standing upon the roof of the Old Orchard House, the spires of Portland
twelve miles away, are distinctly seen against the eastern sky. In the same direction
are seen Cape Elizabeth and Prout's Neck boldly pushing out of their rock-bound
shores against the dashing ocean. Standing above the distant blue hills in the west,
like a gray old sentinel, is seen Mount Washington; and on the south the dark pines
of Wood Island seem to arise from the waters, and its light-house, from sunset till
sunrise, flashes out its cheering rays to guide the wave-tossed mariner on his pathless
voyage.
The property of the Old Orchard House, and a short distance from it, is a dense
Old^Orchard House, from the West, Showing New Steel Pier.
forest of evergreen and deciduous trees, standing in natural grandeur, with strong
arms interlocked as if defying the vandal axe which laid low their early contempo-
raries. In this unmarred forest are found many of the native wild flowers of Maine.
Here, like a cluster of corals in a setting of emerald, grows the bright bunchberry,
and the glossy-petaled partridge vine and the sweet, tiny twin flower entwine the moss-
covered knolls. The modest violet, the delicate star flower, and the fragrant checker-
berry flourish here, and from the abundance of lichens this primeval retreat has been
appropriately called Fern Park.
GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS. 9'
ATTRACTIONS AT OLD ORCHARD.
Old Orchard affords unparalleled facilities for inexpensive excursions. Besides
the pleasure of boating, there is that of inland travel by railway and river, as well as
carriage drives through the country. Along the beach runs the Old Orchard Beach
Railroad, connecting the Boston & Maine Railroad at Old Orchard Station with the
Saco River steamer for Biddeford Pool (two miles down the bay), or the cities of
Biddeford and Saco, four miles up the river. There is also an electric railway con-
necting Biddeford, Saco, and Old Orchard. They are also connected by the Boston
Bathing in front of Old Orchard House Pavilion, a-. : ccn from the Ocean.
& Maine Railroad. Thus there are opportunities for hourly excursions to any of these
places. A charming trip, at trifling cost, is along the beach by the Beach Railroad,
up the picturesque Saco by steamer to the city, thence through a fine farm and wood-
land country by the electric railroad back to Old Orchard, consuming but a few hours'
time.
The carriage drives in the vicinity of Old Orchard are especially pleasing. Some
are through dark forests with overhanging branches, others through a region of fair
fields and flourishing farms. Along the highways grow the fragrant wild rose and
sweet-brier, the bayberry and laurel. As summer declines, the golden rod and purple
92 GILLESPIE'S POPULAR TOURS.
asters appear, waving their brilliant plumes, prophetic of approaching autumn. Oneof these charming drives lead to the Cascade, a fine water-fall with a descent of morethan fifty feet, surrounded by a scenery of a wild and striking character.
The three and one-half days spent at Old Orchard Beach will unquestionably be
counted among the most delightful of the Tour. But all good things have an end,
and the time for leaving Old Orchard, Friday morning, August 25th, comes all too
soon.
Boarding the Boston & Maine train again we are of¥ for Boston, arriving early
in the afternoon; a few hours later the party leaves Boston for Fall River, Mass., to
connect with our Fall River Line steamer for the return across Long Island Soundto New York, arriving in New York City early in the morning, Saturday, August 26th.
Doubtless all will desire to spend the day in New York City, so an afternoon train
will be decided upon for the final run to Philadelphia, arriving at the Reading Ter-
minal at an early hour Saturday evening, August 26th.
The official route for the party will be: Philadelphia & Reading R. R. to NewYork; Fall River Line to Boston; Boston & Maine R. R. through the White Moun-tains to Old Orchard Beach, and from Old Orchard to Boston; Fall River Line back
to New York, and Philadelphia & Reading to Philadelphia.
It will be observed upon a careful reading of this Itinerary that only the best
accommodations throughout have been provided. Regular rates at all the hotels
selected are high, for they are the best to be had, so that ordinarily the Tour just out-
lined as the "White Mountain Tour" is very expensive. Notwithstanding all this, I
am able to offer an exceptionally low figure for this Tour for a party of 50 people only.
The number is positively limited to 50 persons.
Rate.—For the entire White Mountain Tour, as outlined, cover-
ing every necessary expense, except two meals on Fall
River Line steamers (a la carte), from Philadelphia,
August 14th, back to Philadelphia, August 26th, $60.00
Rate named covers all railroad and steamer tickets, state-rooms on steamers, all
hotel bills, all meals en route (with the exception of one each way on Fall River Line
steamer, where meals are served a la carte), the ascent of Mount Washington—in
short, every necessary expense for the entire Tour.
An Advance Payment of five dollars ($5.00) is required when registering, the
balance ($55.00) to be paid on or before August 9th, 1899, when all tickets and "Little
Red Book" of coupons," covering entire Tour, will be ready for delivery.
I will personally conduct the party.
Correspondence solicited. Address (or call).
639-643 N. Broad St., Phila., Pa.
*MF IT ISN'T THE BEST, WE DON'T SELL IT."
You "wont have a good time on your T^our
unless you take a Camera "with you*
Get one now, and we will have time to teach you how to use it before
you start.
Call, and let us show you the newest models and quote you surprisingly
low prices. We are open evenings.
JOHN eURTIS. Jr.DEALER IN
Photographic Supplies of Every Description
1520 Columbia Avenue, Philadelphia
Sales Agent for "ALTA" Cameras and the best brands of Printing=out Papers—"VERA," "VICTOR,""VERA MATTE"
Manufacturer of the celebrated " VINCO " and " KEYSTONE " Solutions and Specialties
93
Great Rock T$M l^oute
^ The Favorite Line Between ^
BRIDGE OVER MISSISSIPPI RIVER
CHICAGOand DENVER
COLORADO SPRINGS
MANITOUPUEBLO
and Other Colorado Points
Choice of Routes via
OMAHAKANSAS CITY
or ST. JOSEPH
Th^ P/ltlitimOtit consisting of new ElegantVl;V ^V|Ulf^lllVlll Sleepers, Buffet-Smokers,
Reclining Chair Cars (free) in ^ i^ ^ i&
Are of Latest Pattern and in Every Respect the Best
Best Dining Car Service in tbe Ulorid
CHAS. KENNEDYGcn'I Eastern Passenger Agent
305 Broadway
NEW YORK CITY
W. J. LEAHYPass. Agent Middle District
HJ S. Ninth Street
PHILADELPHIA, PA.
^
JOHN SEBASTIANGeneral Passenger and Ticket
Agent
CHICAGO, ILL.
^9'4
In going to the meeting of The National Educational
Association, to be held at Los Angeles, California , in JiUy, i8g^,
it is natural for one to wish to see the GRANDEST and
MOST IMPRESSIVE SCENERY en route. This you will
do by taking the
Denver & Rio Grande R. R.(in one or both directions, as we have two different routes
through the mountains')
This Road traverses over a thousand miles of the T^ocky
{Mountains, and has all of the FINEST MOUNTAINSCENERY IN .AMERICA ON ITS LINES. IVrite to
H, E. Tupper^ or S, K, Hooper^Gen'l Agent, G. P. & T. A.,
No. ^5^ Broadway, New York, Denver, Col.,
for illustrated pamphlets of the route.
95
Uirqinia
is a beautiful, dancing, gliding
sheet of water near a collec-
tion of rocks known as
THE DEVIL'SELBOW
on the road from the
GRAND CANONto NORRIS GEYSER BASIN
in YELLOWSTONE PARK
EVERY TOURIST SEES IT!
Send me SIX CENTS for the NORTHERN PACIFICS well-known
WONDERLAND publication.
CHAS* S. FEE, General Passenger Agent,
ST. PAUL, MINN.For Rates, etc., write to
I. M. BORTLE, 47 S. Third St., Philadelphia, Pa.
96
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/^ 111 Thomson Pafk Dfive
Cranberry Twp,, PA 16066
(412)779-2111
40 7. V
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